Install Siding before Raising Wall

Gary in WA

That's why I started with this: "Talk to the Building Inspector for your area.". Oregon even shows you the sheathing on the corners, and proper nailing, great, no mistakes. Unless you have adjoining window openings at the corner... http://www2.iccsafe.org/states/orego..._Frameset.html

Ask your Engineer to list alternate bracing besides continuous panel bracing with sheathing. More hold-downs at the bracing, 1/2" sheathing rather than 3/8" minimum, OR 1x4 let ins, braced panels located within 8 feet of the corners (no worry about laps or tie-ins), a metal Simpson wall brace strap installed to offset the panel or 1x4... etc. http://www.strongtie.com/products/co...c-twb-rcwb.asp You could frame the neighbor's wall with the two studded lapped corner, installed as mentioned, so the side (front) wall would lap onto the corner of the side wall.

Be safe, Gary

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stubits

Thanks everyone!

So, I just realized, the wall in question is a rake wall. Does that make any difference?

How do you guys frame rake walls? There are some good diagrams here, my plan is to do platform framing, like in section B. In which case, does the wall sheathing extend up the rafter, or does it terminate at the rafter?

Thanks!

Scuba_Dave

My sheathing goes up onto the rafters

Gary in WA

I'd design it so the bottom p.t. sill sitting on the top of the dividing brick wall was the bottom plate. Build the bottom cut-up wall first with a single top plate but 3" short of the front line. After building and installing the top wall (also 3" short of the front line), fully sided to lap the bottom wall siding already installed. Then add two 18+' studs to the walls for strength, with 1/2 the corner board nailed to one. (No hinge effect). Break the length joint far enough apart for strength. The fly rafter on the 1/2 gable is on the outside of the sheathed rake wall framing.

Be safe, Gary

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