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Old 01-05-2009, 08:19 PM   #16
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Thanks to all that posted... Yeah, I've decided to skip it.

Angus242, wow, you do really nice work. Saw the pics of the kitchen re-do's.


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Old 01-06-2009, 04:18 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ininkus View Post
I guess before the hardwood goes down I could look into thermal sub floors or heat... but ick.. more money!

If you want radiant heat in your floors (great idea by the way--I have it and LOVE it!!!!), the best way to do it in an existing structure is from the floor joists below (i.e., tearing out the drywall in the floor below). There are really great products that get installed under the existing subfloor, between the joists. If ever there is a problem with the heating system, you can always attack it from the ceiling again. However, those mat-style systems that you lay on top of subflooring limit the types of flooring you can use and cannot be repaired without removing the flooring again. It's unlikely you'd need to make repairs, but something to consider nonetheless.

PLEASE!!! Do not put holes in your subfloor. The previous comments about structural integrity are completely accurate. It is so much easier to pull out the drywall (do this yourself) and then hire a drywall contractor to reinstall it. The most I have ever paid for drywall was $17 per sheet to have it installed, taped, mudded and finished to be ready for paint (and you can paint it yourself). In the meantime, you can easily install batt insulation yourself. It's a dirty job, but in the end it is the better route. (As a side note, it would also afford you a great opportunity to install can lights. It's very easy to do at that stage, and they look fantastic!!!).

Just because you're putting down cement board doesn't mean you can compromise your existing subfloor. You have to have a sound subfloor before you would want to install cement board for a tile installation--they go hand in hand.

Also, I have to recommend that you try to avoid textured ceilings if at all possible. I flip houses for a living, so I deal with buyers and realtors a lot. Trust me--buyers hate textured ceilings. It really dates a property. Something to consider for possible future resale.

OK, that's my 2 cents. 'nuff said. :-)
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:36 PM   #18
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Thanks for all your feedback and advice Tmpyankee.

Definately not going to swiss cheese my floor after all the replies!

What type of radiant heat do you prefer working with? Are there any that you have found to be efficient and economical at the same time?

Best regards!
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Old 01-06-2009, 04:43 PM   #19
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I have never drilled holes very large for blown insulation into walls or ceilings, usually around 1 1/2", but I have seen hot air ducts of some rather large sizes in as many as six locations in a room with no inspector or builder concern about the structural integrity of the sub floor being weakened and causing harm. So I am not sure if that is a major concern if the holes are small.

Personally I would go through the drywall as I find that easier to patch. However I would be more concerned about trapping cellar dampness if that was an issue at your location that would cause mildew build up in the ceiling over time.
I would be sure to check for the moisture levels in the basement before considering the ceiling insulation and perimeter insulation would be more my concern than cool floors.


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