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Old 04-17-2011, 08:58 PM   #16
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idea for indoor basement water irrigation


Yes it's blocks. I have not drilled any holes in the bottom yet, but if I do decide to go with a system I will do that.

So #2 idea is out of the question then? That's the one I was hoping to do as the future wall can just go right on top of the cement I poor and overall it would be the easiest, but I don't want to do a hack job that does not work either. I might just skip the indoor system and do the job outside. If I'm going to break up cement all around the foundation indoor, it's probably easier breaking up the deck outside and just fixing the problem from outside. The rest of the house would be easy to access so if I see it's a very shoddy job where the deck is, I could look at going all around. What I find odd is I rarely see any water coming out of the weeping tile pipes that go into the sump. I'm even wondering if there's a clog somewhere. Tempting to buy one of those micromachines remote controls and mount a x10 cam and LED on it and go for a ride inside of it. Ok, now that actually does sound like a really fun idea.

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Old 04-18-2011, 05:46 PM   #17
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don't make any rash decisions. take your time, do your research talk to some pros (not me) and then make your move.

internal waterproofing has an added benefit that exterior does not have... not only does internal waterproofing protect provide a water exhaust path for leaky walls, it ALSO provides a path for the the water coming up from under the slab which external irrigation system does not address at all! The 4" concrete slab floor with vapour barrier is heavy enough that the water that gets under there pushes up against the underside of the slab .. gets blocked .. and then travels to the edges where there is a seam between the slab and the footer. but that is exactly where the interior drain is, so the water goes into that and then into the sump pump.

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Old 04-18-2011, 08:23 PM   #18
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The major downside of ONLY controlling water on the inside is that water will still slowly degrade the concrete block. In some cases this is worse than others, but it's not that uncommon to run into situations where the block are actually what we refer to as "rotten". Neither CMU or the mortar is constructed for constant water submersion.

I'm still a fan of fixing water intrusion problems from the exterior. Afterall, that is the source of the water. When you try to deal with it on the interior, all you're doing is attempting to manage the water. Every job is different, and often times fixing it from the exterior simply isn't feasable, but I can't think of one scenario where it might be inferior.

And, there's nothing inherently wrong with sawing the floor tench out. The patch sits directly on the footing and if you're concerned, you can easily & effectively dowel the new & old together. As for the joint being less prone to leakage one way or the other, I'm not buying it. Concrete shrinks, which is why we rely on plastic vapor barriers to control moisture, not the concrete floor itself.

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Old 04-23-2011, 10:03 PM   #19
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agreed, that makes sense. the best approach is to try and study how the water is getting into the basement so you can apply the best solution.

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Old 04-30-2011, 07:29 PM   #20
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It happened again the other day, this time a few more spots. I was able to catch it in the action, and it looks like the water is actually coming from the blocks and not just the floor, so I will have to fix it from outside. As a temp fix I pulled off a BP and tried to plug the hole with cement, to at least minimize the mess. I had to move all my paint cans (which should be on a shelf anyway... lol).

So yeah guess I have to dig up the foundation. Fun fun.

I also have one weeping tile pipe that is clay or something, but I'm guessing clay, and I took a pic inside of it (attached). Think I should replace that? During a large storm I DID see water coming out of the other pipe which appears to have been redone at one point but the other had no water at all coming out of it. So I could be lucky and my problem is just that water on one section of weeping tile is just not draining at all. Though I suppose it would just go to the other pipe unless it's sectioned off.
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Old 05-01-2011, 09:44 AM   #21
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I take it that the drain tile pictured is feeding the crock in the lower, full basement level?

If so, it's not uncommon for only one side, the one that's slightly lower, to trickle water. Most times the water falls right through the tile themselves & runs in the surrounding stone simply because it's lower, and leaks into the crock right below the tile.
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Old 05-01-2011, 02:57 PM   #22
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The pipe leads here:



It's the one you can't see inside, the other with water is PVC or ABS and has water coming out. Crawlspace is on that side, basement is on the other, the hole itself is in the basement part. It's all one level.

Also I'll be getting a weeping tile specialist to come check out the basement and decide from there what is the best way to approach the problem. i may just contract this out. Because of our weather I have to be able to do this in one day and I doubt I could do that myself with a shovel. A guy with all the proper equipment on the other hand will be able to. At least I'll have peace of mind that I have proper perimeter drainage.


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