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Old 02-25-2013, 08:13 PM   #16
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I was an idiot when I framed the door opening

I've done it ( wouldn't do it got hinged doors) but always easier than cutting doors re mortising hinges and especially hollow core doors


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Old 02-26-2013, 10:12 AM   #17
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I was an idiot when I framed the door opening

I'm not worried about the the studs being out-of-plumb. As this was originally intended to be drywall wrapped, I made certain the studs were plumb when I framed it. The rest of the house just has drywall-wrapped openings, like this:

So, that's what I was going to do here also. It was after I started hanging drywall that I decided I wanted it to look a little nicer and be trimmed with wood.

As for the casing, it fits. It's tight, but it fits. Due to some uncontrollable issues, I had to put the A/V rack about 1" further to the left than I wanted. Even if I flush the casing for the door with the stud, there is still about 3/8" to 1/2" between the two. (Excuse the frog tape and over-paint in this picture, I was in the middle of painting when I took this). White = door casing, black = a/v rack casing.

For fun, here's where the A/V rack progress is as of this morning:
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Old 02-26-2013, 10:23 AM   #18
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I was an idiot when I framed the door opening

if you ply the sides with the 1/4" then just set the casing to the backside of the 1/4" ply and caulk the ply to the casing. after caulked the 1/4" ply edge will not be there at all really, just a caulked edge so it should look fine... just be sure and nail plenty of nails into the 1/4" as that thickness lends to waviness in the product if not nailed correctly
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Old 02-26-2013, 09:29 PM   #19
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I was an idiot when I framed the door opening

Just a DIY'r here, but I wouldn't think beyond ripping the bi-folds. Too easy.


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