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hyunelan2 02-25-2013 10:45 AM

I was an idiot when I framed the door opening
Cliff's Notes: classic mistake of framing opening too small for bifold door.

It's not the end of the world, as this is only a closet in my finished basement. But the idiot who framed this project (me), didn't account for clearance space for the bi-fold door opening. The rough opening width is 73" (6'1") between the studs. Originally my thought was that I would wrap drywall around into the closet doorway (1/2" x2 = 1") and that would leave me with 72" for a 6' double bifold door. [forgetting clearance space for proper operation].

Somewhere along the line, the idea changed, and I thought it would look better with wood trimming out the doorway, instead of just drywall like the builders used in the rest of the house. 3/4" wood framing now leaves me with 71.5" rough opening for the door + needed clearance space.

Options? I see 3:
  1. Custom order a door.
  2. Get a standard 6' double door and trim 1/2" off of each panel.
  3. Frame the sides of the doorway with 1/4" boards instead of 3/4". Of course, this means I have to find 1/4" thick boards. They only need to be paint-grade, however.

Any thought as to which approach is better? Any other ideas? Drywall is up, finished, and final painted already, so cutting the opening wider is not really a viable option.

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 11:30 AM

I would rip off Sheetrock in openings and put up your 3/4 pre primed jambs when u trim the openings u will no longer see the Sheetrock u cut out and will look much better ( and hold up better ) than Sheetrock. As this I'd s basement u t probably gonna have to cut the bottoms of the doors

framer52 02-25-2013 11:32 AM

Cut the doors, normal praise:thumbsup:.

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 11:36 AM

Don't cut doors with bifold s to do it right you would have to rip equal amounts off each one if your cut is off you will see it when they r closed

joecaption 02-25-2013 11:36 AM

Hope you bought real wood doors not hollow core.
If your just trying to make the opening wider a simple saws all cut at the top to cut off the nails and a few taps, then add some more nails top and bottom.
Then just trim some of the drywall off.

123pugsy 02-25-2013 11:42 AM

Option 4. Sliding doors? :whistling2:

hyunelan2 02-25-2013 11:51 AM

Door bottoms won't need to be cut, have 83" rough height.

Can't just cut the sheetrock back to widen the opening, there is a stud sitting right there.

Sliding doors were a thought, but might get inconvenient when/if I'm dragging a bicycle on a trainer (or other cumbersome object) through the door opening, versus a 6' wide opening. No doors have been purchased as of yet.

hyunelan2 02-25-2013 11:56 AM

Hit post before completing a thought... I think right now my leading plan is to resaw some 3/4" x 4.5" boards down to 3/8", plane them to 1/4" thickness and put them on the edges. (Of course case moulding will cover the front and back where the drywall meets the wood).

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 12:01 PM

Since all weight of doors will be in top use 3/4 up top and luann on the sides

hyunelan2 02-25-2013 12:03 PM

I thought about plywood/luann, but what about the edges of the luann? With the case moulding offset to leave a slight reveal, won't the rough edge be visible/ugly? Or should I just get around that by mounting the casing flush and not leaving any reveal? Edge band it? (can you do that with something that thin?)

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 12:05 PM

If u have planet or way to get 3/4 material def better off that way if not 1/4 in Mdf or Luann last resort

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 12:06 PM

Sorry meant planer but if u have planet those r hood to( damn stubby fingers on phone)

kaschmid3 02-25-2013 12:06 PM


jagans 02-25-2013 06:29 PM

How are you going to install the casing next to the pass through. Kind of tight, no?

jaydevries 02-25-2013 06:55 PM

how are you going to put 1/4 material up and keep it straight unless your studs are some how perfectly plumb
cut all 4 doors on the table saw and repaint 8 simple passes

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