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-   -   HUGE wall framing ooops! (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/huge-wall-framing-ooops-80603/)

morpho 09-05-2010 05:10 PM

HUGE wall framing ooops!
 
The structure is a 24'x40' single story 2"x6" framed structure on a slab. Think garage.
There is a 16'x7' RO for a large patio slider going in.
The walls were raised and all looked right. At some point the bottom plate must have moved on one end of the RO for the slider and it is 1/4 inch out of position with the opposite side. Unfortunately it got bolted down in this position.
Any advice?
Will this make putting the slider in impossible?
Any cures?
Any magic potions and chants?

Thanks.

Willie T 09-05-2010 06:38 PM

In which direction, and to what degree (angle), and did it make the bottom tighter or bigger than the top.... and did it make one end of the openings out of plumb, and if so how?.... left, right.... forward or back? Can the door frame physically be fit into the opening in proper alignment for the door to work right?

All you've indicated is "out of position", which says very little, specifically.

I'm suspecting what your are saying is that the two wall surfaces are no longer on an identical and matching plane. If so, this can be simply and easily fixed with long, progressively thinner wedges applied to about three studs.

jlhaslip 09-06-2010 12:31 AM

If you loosen off the bolts, can you move the wall back the 1/4" using a sledge hammer?

vsheetz 09-06-2010 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlhaslip (Post 496569)
If you loosen off the bolts, can you move the wall back the 1/4" using a sledge hammer?

Agreed, I have 2 lb sledge hammer (aka, BFH) I use for 'alignments' such as this.

Willie T 09-06-2010 08:24 AM

I would be cautious about just arbitrarily moving the bottom plate. As things are right now, it seems you may not be altogether certain it is even the bottom plate that is out of alignment. (as opposed to possibly the top plate)

Before you move ANYTHING, do some diligent string line pulling and level plumb reading to find out for sure WHERE the problem lies.

morpho 09-06-2010 11:27 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Hi everyone.

Thanks for having a look at my screw-up.

Willy T,
You are probably correct that I need to step back and make sure everything is as it seems.
I will do that again...and again.

The wall that is out of line with the other side of the RO is very short. 8' 6 3/4" to be exact. When I place a framing square in the corner it becomes very obvious that its not square. It angles into the structure. All the other corners are square though...so my guess is that this one is the culprit. I have run strings on all the top and bottom plates and they are all within an 1/8" give or take a cocked head and closed eye. (so probably closer to 3/16", but who knows given the plate stock being less than perfectly straight.)
In no way is this a perfectly built structure as I have never even built a bird house before so I have no idea what kind of tolerances I can have.
What I do know is that it should not be out too much otherwise the whole thing goes wonky the further along you get.

jlhaslip and vsheetz,

I did give it a little whack with old sledgy, but it didn't budge. I am thinking about drilling into the bottom plate right next to the bolt and making a notch so the plate can slide over and then I'll re-drill a few inches away and put in a new expanding anchor bolt.

The wall is the bottom left one.

Thanks again everyone.

Gary in WA 09-06-2010 12:52 PM

Have you cross-stringed the door opening yet?

http://books.google.com/books?id=DVF...0frame&f=false


Gary

morpho 09-06-2010 09:03 PM

ok...thats too cool!
Thanks Gary!

I'll try that in the morning.......I'm done on site for the day.

morpho 09-09-2010 08:41 PM

everything is now where it's supposed to be.
A bit of drilling...a bit of sledge hammering....a bit of pushing and pulling and voila! Kinda straight walls.
Now I just need to figure out how I'm going to get the trusses up there.

Thanks again everyone.

-Morpho.

Gary in WA 09-09-2010 09:00 PM

I pulled this off another forum I answered:

I've spread and set 26' trusses alone, many times. Plumb and line your walls to an inside string line, corner to corner, 1-1/2" in (with a block tacked to inside top plate. Brace the walls from the inside or outside so they don't move after aligning by string, every 8' or so. Build a "T" of 2-2x4's, with it supported every 8', braced down the garage center like a temp. wall, just below the top plate height. Push/lift the gable truss up onto the gable end, lay it flat there. Stack the rest on it with peaks pointing away from the garage hole.

How much do you know about rolling trusses? Set the red sticker marking the cant's at the correct side......
setting trusses - Google Search

Read some of the references and then ask away....

Gary

morpho 09-10-2010 10:21 PM

Thanks Gary.

I have helpers now so I will not have to do it solo!
I think it should be pretty simple for the most part.

Though today I went and had a look at the Simpson strongtie website and the intsall instructions for the H1 plates and they show them on the outside of the structure....well there is no way this can happen on my wall as I sheathed the walls on the ground and I have raised heel trusses. I was "smart" and sheathed the walls up 6" above the top plate so I could tie in heel of the the trusses to the top plate. Now there is no where to attach the plates...unless I slice little lines in the sheathing to slide the plate arms through....not going to happen!
The other option I guess would be to put the plate on the inside of the wall....but I have no idea if this will work structurally...code wise....and "Simpson approved wise". Not to mention if the drywall will end up wonky...or should I say wonkier than it will already probably be.

Thoughts anyone?

Gary in WA 09-10-2010 10:52 PM

Since H-1's were required on residential houses here, I have never installed them outside the plate, always inside. Ask your Inspector. Read all the info on the truss papers, the Inspector will check everything. Blocking between raised heel's will be required. Possibly 4'o.c.diagonal braces at each gable end truss to roof, ridge blocks with diagonal braces, diagonal flat braces on the bottom chords from the wall corners in, lateral bracing across the web strut in numerous places on each truss, flat ties every 4'o.c. wall/gable bottom chord, etc. Many 2x4's...

Gary

morpho 09-11-2010 10:10 AM

Aren't you a ray of sunshine in my already complicated morning! ;)
Thats a lot of bracing!
I understand the need for the bracing though...but still!

The worst part is I can't find any images of what this all looks like.
Lots about the temporary bracing...but nothing showing the permanent stuff.
Go figure!

There seems to be a common thread in house building ...... "Well, everyone knows how thats done!"
All the books I have about framing have images of guy's hammering and measuring, but they show nothing of importance.

Thanks again.

Willie T 09-11-2010 10:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by morpho (Post 499364)
Aren't you a ray of sunshine in my already complicated morning! ;)
Thats a lot of bracing!
I understand the need for the bracing though...but still!

The worst part is I can't find any images of what this all looks like.
Lots about the temporary bracing...but nothing showing the permanent stuff.
Go figure!

There seems to be a common thread in house building ...... "Well, everyone knows how thats done!"
All the books I have about framing have images of guy's hammering and measuring, but they show nothing of importance.

Thanks again.

A lot of what Gary is talking about comes in the form of colored drawings along with the trusses. Around here the sheets are PINK for easy identification. Sometimes it's a big "fold-out" page.

They often look something like this..... http://www.sbcindustry.com/jobsite.p...arbesa6bnp9b33

steveel 09-11-2010 10:53 AM

You may find lots of useful info in Taunton Press' "Working Alone", which goes through steps for building a simple house by yourself, start to finish.

Also, there have been a LOT of superb how-to framing articles in Taunton's "Fine Homebuilding" magazine over the years. Your library may have a stash, and could interlibrary loan back issues. If you have the cash, you can buy the entire series on cdrom.

SteveEl


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