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Old 07-11-2015, 01:58 AM   #1
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How Shallow can I make this pitch


I live in Michigan.

I would like to run the drain pipe in the attached pic farther out into the backyard. I understand the typical elbow, to the right of the picture, is 30 degrees. I found flex elbow at the big box. How shallow can I set the flex elbow so that water does not freez too quickly in the winter before it can be discharged? Is 10 degrees too shallow?

(I am constrained by what I can do above the elbow shown in the pic.)
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:10 AM   #2
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How Shallow can I make this pitch


wth is that ? is there a walk there ?

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Old 07-11-2015, 08:14 AM   #3
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I live in Ann Arbor MI....you lost me at "..... so that water does not freeze too quickly in the winter" No matter what you do your at the mercy of mother nature...how cold it gets, how fast it gets cold and how long it stays cold. Having lived in SE Michigan since 1961 its a rare winter that gutters and downspouts are functioning in January and February
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:24 AM   #4
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Why don't you take that erector set down and run the pipe underground to a low spot on the property or a drywell?
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:38 AM   #5
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A drywell could be problematic in SE Michigan. We have a lot of clay soil. In some places its very heavy.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:09 PM   #6
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How Shallow can I make this pitch


That goofy set up is never going to work, and looks like poop.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:34 PM   #7
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If you use heat trace cable you can run your slope as slow as you want to.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:04 PM   #8
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How Shallow can I make this pitch


Drain pipes work quite well at 1/4" per foot run. @ 1/2" they drain even quicker. @ 1/8" they are a little slow.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:14 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by craig11152 View Post
A drywell could be problematic in SE Michigan. We have a lot of clay soil. In some places its very heavy.
The soil content is irrelevant to the underground design. You just modify it. Set up a few drywells (if you want) at the back of the property. On top of each drywell you install a popup. If the drywells fill up, the pop up releases the water at the back of the property.
And that's the goal, right? Get it away from the house.
To make sure it drains properly all year round you install ice melt cables in the gutters and the underground pipes all the way to the drywells.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
The soil content is irrelevant to the underground design. You just modify it. Set up a few drywells (if you want) at the back of the property. On top of each drywell you install a popup. If the drywells fill up, the pop up releases the water at the back of the property.
And that's the goal, right? Get it away from the house.
To make sure it drains properly all year round you install ice melt cables in the gutters and the underground pipes all the way to the drywells.
Soil content is relevant thats why you just said modify and add. because the soil content is relevant. If it wasn't relevant you wouldn't modify.
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Old 07-11-2015, 03:50 PM   #11
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i don't care where you live...you can not and should not do what you are doing ...its just wrong ,...oh and did i say it looks like sh#$@$#it...think about it you can do better,,,
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:29 PM   #12
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Thanks guys.

1. As Ron6519 points out, the aim is to move the water away from the basement.
2. Having moved the water away from the basement, I was thinking of adding a rain garden further in the back. That's the reason for wanting to move it farther out.
3. About it looking ugly .... getting the water away from the basement at the cheapest cost possible is my absolute priority. I did not intend to leave the fittings like that -- I will be painting them also. (I used rustoleum spray paint, but now I am thinking I will just brush paint it and try to get a better custom match with the fence.
4. @ben's plumbing , could you tell me why it is wrong? Is there a code violation? BTW, I asked the neighbor if he was ok with it, and he says he has no problem with it.
5. Thanks for the info about the drywells. I will certainly consider in the future, but with many other things on my plate now, that is not a priority. But thanks for making me more aware of its possibilities.

Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2015, 04:30 PM   #13
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Forgot to say thanks Nap. I did not know that those heater things existed. Will certainly consider as I balance costs and function moving forward.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:36 PM   #14
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How Shallow can I make this pitch


The heat cable/tape work well and can be on a switch so you can turn it on when needed.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:42 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
The heat cable/tape work well and can be on a switch so you can turn it on when needed.
They actually now have a sensor that will not turn the power on unless:
1. The temperature is below freezing
and
2. There is moisture present.

You can leave the switch on and let the sensor control whether it's activated.
This is an option when you buy the cables.

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