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Old 09-23-2010, 05:30 PM   #1
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How to replace a patio door

Hi All,

Not sure I’m posting in the right section, but here it goes:

I bought a new 6’ patio door for the family room. The opening is exactly ” wider than the new door so I’m good here as well as the depth of the new door. The height however, is 1 inch short. There is a 1 ” (thickness) wood timber on the threshold followed by the cement foundation directly underneath. If I remove this piece of 2” x 6” timber I will be directly on the foundation wall, but will have the proper height clearance. I bought the proper membrane seal for the surround.

My question is: Am I OK to lay the door directly on the cement foundation wall? Of course, I would apply the membrane first followed by the 3 beads of silicone caulking. I should also mention the door slides are resting on a 1 inch wood frame (installed by the manufacturer). Also, the instructions that came with the door indicate to shim and screw the door on the sides at 3 locations along the height and one screw directly at the middle on top. However, there is no screwing indicated at the bottom (threshold). If I do screw at the bottom I will probably need proper cement screws right? I emailed Farley, but got very little help… all they said were read the instructions (3 sentences worth???)

I didn’t want to do this project originally, but I got such a great deal on the Farley vinyl door that I’m saving over 700 bucks on the cheapest quote I got to replace it professionally!

Any input is much appreciated.



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Old 09-23-2010, 07:25 PM   #2
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Setting the door unit directly onto the foundation wall is ok if properly isolated and flashed (I would set it in a sill pan), but there are a few other issues to consider.
1. The 2 x 6 is the continious bottom plate for the wall. Cutting it out could leave the ends of the walls with insufficient fastening to the foundation in this area, possibly allowing it to warp out of parallel with
the other side. When you create an independent opening like this without a continious bottom plate, the walls are required to be anchored within 12" of each end.
2. Will lowering the unit this much create a height relationship problem between the bottom track and the existing floor?

Do not screw through the bottom track, you are just creating a leak. Once a silicone or polyurethane sealant cures, the bottom track will not move.

This shows why it is so important to verify your openings before purchasing any new door units. There are countless variations in the height and width dimensions between manufacturers, but especially on the height because of the seemingly endlless combinations of threshold and weatherproofing designs available to them.

Any contractor or handyman can keep you occupied for a long time with stories about customers who bought a "great deal" that ended up costing more in modifications so it could be used than it would have cost to order what was really needed in the beginning


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Old 09-24-2010, 06:21 AM   #3
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The bottom threshold is not continous cuz the surround is also a cement foundation wall up to 4' high then brick the rest of the way up. I would have had to replace it (bottom 2x6) anyways as there is rot there.

The verticals are also resting on foundation 4' up and they are 1 3/4" thick.

I'm planning to open it up this weekend to get a better look and put new door in place.

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