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-   -   How to repair rotted joists and studs? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-repair-rotted-joists-studs-65228/)

Snav 02-24-2010 08:51 AM

How to repair rotted joists and studs?
 
Ok - I know what I need to do but I'm not sure what's the best approach.

First off - my house is simple stick framing. The 'I' beam runs down the middle and the floors are framed with 2x8 joists that span 14'.

So - There are 2 issues going on in my bathroom - as you can see I'm almost done peeling up the subfloor - or the ghostly remainds of a subfloor. The previous owner "redid" the bathroom and left the bottom layer of subfloor in place eventhough it was rotted beyond belief - even at that time.

The first picture is where some severe damage is (the right side of the bathroom) - One joist has been cut in order to allow for the plumbing for the tub, so that area (under the wall you see) is completely unsupported.

I know i need to remove and replace all of the rotted wood - but how exactly should I do that? The damaged wall is 11.5' long and the damage is on 6' of it.
As you can see the sole plate is rotted through. I will have to replace it along with half the studs. Is it possible to replace it without removing the entire wall?
The other side of this wall is my kitchen - so these studs support top and bottom cabinets.

My husband suggest that I temporarily brace the wall with a few horizontal beams at the upper half (corner to corner)
Then cut all the studs (about 3/4 the way down or so) and slip the sole plate out, and then insert a new sole plate and then add in new studs without removing the upper half of the ones that are supporting the cabinets or the temporary horizontal support. Then connecting the new studs to the old ones and then removing the horizontal supports.

Do you think this would work?

My idea is to just build a new wall - but we have the kitchen cabinets to consider. We cannot remove them because they're so old I'm sure they'd fall apart - and I'm not ready, yet, to redo the kitchen (it IS a plan, but not one we can get to yet).

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...rrotclose2.jpg

Second photo Is the left side of the bathroom. This wall is the bathroom/livingroom wall - a door use to be here which we've walled over on the other side. This is a load bearing wall.

The issue, here, is that I'm planning on putting in the proper sized joists (it's currently framed with 2x8's - we need to put in 2x10's - we've temporarily fixed serious sag issues due to these undersized joists by running secondary support beams that are not tied into the framework - and we need to finally fix it so we can remove some of the temp supports.)

The only issue here is the method of replacement. My idea is to work one joist at a time. Remove one joist, put in a new joist . . . remove the next, put in the next, etc. . . as i remove and replace I need to take away the temporary support.

Part of the reason for this is that there is no support under the edges of the room where the edges of the new subfloor will go. The old subfloor goes under the sole plates - so I've had to leave that underside in place.

In order to put in a new subfloor I will have to run edge-support joists under all 4 walls.

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...joisthrmph.jpg

HooKooDooKu 02-24-2010 10:54 AM

Check out this post. Seems to be your exact situation.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/rotte...athroom-31598/

Snav 02-24-2010 11:05 AM

Thanks, awesome! That's how I'll do it, then.

It also occured to me to simply sister the 2x8's with another 2x8 - Only one beam under the bathroom is useless and needs to be replaced (the one that's cut) - so I'll slide in another 2x8, first - and then remove it and put in a second.

Snav 02-24-2010 04:08 PM

Well - I'm working on the floor joists, now and all I can say is that's not going to happen (slipping in a 14' 2x8 next to the existing ones) - There's simply no room to maneuver the new joist into place because 2.5 feet of the joist-span is floored over by the livingroom (the part in the first picture). Trust me, I've tried - after removing all obstacles I'm just a few inches short of tilt-in space. argh!

So - I'm going to "remove" each joist by cutting the nails that hold them in, sliding them to the side to bring in the new ones - then pairing them all up. . . .

*edit* on millionth thought - I'm considering redoing the floor framing altogether.

The crawlspace is framed with a block pier and ledger system around the perimeter and center - the joists then span from the center to the ledger on the outside.

the ledger is a 2x8 that's on it's side (so it's 1-1/2" thick) - and is supported ever 4 feet with a block pier. This has led to significant floor sagging - the ledger sags, the joists sag, the rotted wall sags AND the rotted wall is resting between two joists - not directly over one.

So I'm going to read up on code options for reinforcing the pier-block joists (ones that haven't been brought down from ledger sag and have full, adequate direct-to-ground support) and.

If altering the direction of joists is acceptable then I'll actually do that. . . altering the direction would actually give significant support to the kitchen/bathroom wall - where more adequate support is needed - and the area of the load bearing livingroom wall will still be adequately supported over the 5' wall-span.

Termite 02-24-2010 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HooKooDooKu (Post 405188)
Check out this post. Seems to be your exact situation.

http://www.diychatroom.com/f14/rotte...athroom-31598/

You beat me to it HooKooDooKu! That's my formerly rotten bathroom. :laughing:

Snav 02-24-2010 11:35 PM

Ah - very cool!

Well, tonight while burning dinner (a rare occurrence, I swear!) the solution to my problem came to me - with no cutting of the girders, rerunning the direction of the joists or anything drastic and dangerous.

I will simply reinforce the sill with a forward girder and attach the joists to that . . .doing this will fill the sill-gap on the ledge and allow me to just drop the joists into joists hangars from above.

Tada - done.

The current joists will be removed only after the new joists are in place and the original girder and sill, since none are rotted and only warped, will remain - I will just be relocating the load to the new girder instead of the old one. (which wasn't being used to carry the load, anyway - the sagging sills (ledges) were, which is why the ledges sagged to begin with).


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