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Old 08-10-2011, 08:05 AM   #1
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how to pick good boards for studs?


Well I am sorting through a pile of 200 studs... most of them seem perfectly straight, with maybe a slight twist in them... some of them are obviously bowed out, which go onto my blocking pile to make blocking out of... but I've always had problems with telling what is the crown of the board, how in the world do you guys do this by sight? I can look down the board with one eye open and see no curve or see an optical illusion of a curve that is not there when I check it with a laser line from end to end..

I've resorted to using the laser line and lineing up both ends to it to see if it is straight or not, seems to work ok, but takes a while...

any tips that could help?

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Old 08-10-2011, 08:35 AM   #2
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If the "by eye" method really doesn't work for you, you can make a jig. Take two boards and nail them together to create an L. Make sure to use two boards that are truly straight. Then you can lay in the unknown studs into the L and you'll see right away if there is a bow...

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Old 08-10-2011, 09:10 AM   #3
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If the "by eye" method really doesn't work for you, you can make a jig. Take two boards and nail them together to create an L. Make sure to use two boards that are truly straight. Then you can lay in the unknown studs into the L and you'll see right away if there is a bow...
yeah thats a good idea.

I know there are tollerances for twist and crowning, any idea of what is considered a good stud? I know perfectly true is a yes, but I'm sure they don't build with 100% straight wood, I know walls I pulled drywall off of had a good bit of wane in them and twist
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:14 AM   #4
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how to pick good boards for studs?


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yeah thats a good idea.

I know there are tollerances for twist and crowning, any idea of what is considered a good stud? I know perfectly true is a yes, but I'm sure they don't build with 100% straight wood, I know walls I pulled drywall off of had a good bit of wane in them and twist
Not sure what the exact measurements need to be. Don't forget that the wood will move more as it continues to dry out.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:19 AM   #5
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Not sure what the exact measurements need to be. Don't forget that the wood will move more as it continues to dry out.
oh yeah, that's always fun with pressure treated wood, always shrinking and twisting...
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:20 AM   #6
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When you view a board to determine crown and twist always use your dominant eye. Switching (eyes) back and forth to compare perceptions is confusing.

When studs are being installed be sure all crowns are in the same direction with out fail.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:27 AM   #7
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I think you‘re way over thinking this. Why are you worried a crown or the illusion of one the eye can’t see?

Sheetrock and other coverings will float over miner imperfections and you’ll never know they exist.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:29 AM   #8
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When you view a board to determine crown and twist always use your dominant eye. Switching (eyes) back and forth to compare perceptions is confusing.

When studs are being installed be sure all crowns are in the same direction with out fail.
that's what I've tried to do, always thought my right eye was dominate, at least can see better with it

I guess my problem has always been trying to see the crown sometimes I can pick up a slight curve, sometimes it seems larger of a curve...
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:48 AM   #9
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Try holding it farther from your eye. I do studs almost at arms length.
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Old 08-10-2011, 09:59 AM   #10
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I think you‘re way over thinking this. Why are you worried a crown or the illusion of one the eye can’t see?

Sheetrock and other coverings will float over miner imperfections and you’ll never know they exist.

until you trim it and those imperfections stand out as gaps...
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Old 08-10-2011, 10:00 AM   #11
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Try holding it farther from your eye. I do studs almost at arms length.
ah maybe that is my problem, not enough distance
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:11 AM   #12
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I work almost exclusivly with metal studs in commercial work, they are all stright until stepped on and are not effected by the humidity changes, they won't burn, twist, rot are easier to work with once you get used to them and come in many lengths and can be ordered in almost any length. they can be recycled when the house or structure is torn down and are made from recycled metal. I think it is the way to go
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:08 PM   #13
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I work almost exclusivly with metal studs
Just found that humorous considering your handle...
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:08 PM   #14
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I work almost exclusivly with metal studs in commercial work, they are all stright until stepped on and are not effected by the humidity changes, they won't burn, twist, rot are easier to work with once you get used to them and come in many lengths and can be ordered in almost any length. they can be recycled when the house or structure is torn down and are made from recycled metal. I think it is the way to go
even in a basement against a block wall?

I already have the wood in this project though
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:17 PM   #15
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even in a basement against a block wall?
Especially with block walls. That is what metal "hat-channel" is good for. Use hat-channel instead of wood studs and your worries are over.

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