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Old 05-20-2012, 08:47 PM   #16
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How to Nail New Siding Under Existing Siding


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Originally Posted by Shuriko View Post
Loneframer and Tom thank you for your responses.

As kwikfishron indicated I too believe that the elongation produced by the 1/2" or 1/4" shift by pounding the siding level will promote future cracks.

I do have a question with this procedure however. If you are able to pound the nail in at an angle with the siding at 1/4" lower than the adjoining siding why couldn't you close the distance further thereby eliminating the necessity to level by pounding the siding? Or is it the goal to get the bottom as close to level as possible prior to inserting the nail and pounding the siding afterwards is to ensure the course is level since it maybe impossible to level it in the first place?

hole elongation would actually prevent,not encourage splitting imo

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Old 05-20-2012, 08:49 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Shuriko View Post
Loneframer and Tom thank you for your responses.

As kwikfishron indicated I too believe that the elongation produced by the 1/2" or 1/4" shift by pounding the siding level will promote future cracks.

I do have a question with this procedure however. If you are able to pound the nail in at an angle with the siding at 1/4" lower than the adjoining siding why couldn't you close the distance further thereby eliminating the necessity to level by pounding the siding? Or is it the goal to get the bottom as close to level as possible prior to inserting the nail and pounding the siding afterwards is to ensure the course is level since it maybe impossible to level it in the first place?
I slide the shingle up to about 1/4" below the goal elevation, then pre-drill a hole in two locations, about 1" in from each edge, with a slight angle upward.

Using stainless steel siding nails, which have a very small diameter ringed shanks, drive the nails in snug, but not set. Take a wooden block and drive the shingle into position. I've never seen one split using the pre-drilled method.
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Old 05-20-2012, 08:55 PM   #18
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I have a buddy that nails that strip under the windows like that because it’s faster to staple those shingles now and just cover with a piece of trim.

When you nail small courses (2-3” shingles) under windows and such you need to pre-drill them or they can or will split, this takes time. I take the time to make sure all exposed nails lines are straight and uniform for a nice finished look. That trim strip is simply faster and I can’t say I’ve never done it.

In your particular case though you’re over thinking this a bit. Remove the old shingle, install the new nailing (4-5D ring shank siding nail) just below the coarse above, paint it and be done with it.

Here’s a little tip if you’re worried about splitting…Hold the head of the nail on a hard surface, with your hammer tap on the point of the nail to dull or round off the point.

There’s your (almost) split proof nail.
Thanks for the tips kwikfishron.

As to the nailing issue the reason why it maybe a bit over worrying is because most people assume that the nailing can occur anywhere below the existing course and the new siding will hold in place. This is absolutely true if there was plywood or OSB sheathing. In my case there are 1x4 at around 7" o.c. When I lay the nail into the new siding, I could be around 1" into the overlap before the nail may hit the 1x batten below it. I agree if there was continuous sheathing then I would pound the nail right at the edge of the overlap. The nail is hidden and well anchored into the sheathing and the overlap siding is free to epxand and contract.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:08 PM   #19
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Tom you may have a good point there with the elongated holes.

Lone, I have to look up those nails. Thanks for the tips.
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:14 PM   #20
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Tom you may have a good point there with the elongated holes.

Lone, I have to look up those nails. Thanks for the tips.
My nail of choice...

http://www.mazenails.com/catalog/cat...GE12&group=SLM
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:15 PM   #21
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i think we are just splitting hairs and either method you get to work would be ok
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:24 PM   #22
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Thanks Lone
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:14 PM   #23
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Thanks Lone
You don't have to shop nails by a brand name.

Any ring shank "siding nail" will do. If you're anywhere near a coast then Stainless Steel is a must.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:50 AM   #24
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You don't have to shop nails by a brand name.

Any ring shank "siding nail" will do. If you're anywhere near a coast then Stainless Steel is a must.
I am in Los Angeles so I am quite far from the coast. Thanks Kwik
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:26 AM   #25
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the double hot dipped maze shake gun nails are nice,i like my shake nail to have a good size head,some generic ss nails i think the head is too small
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:33 PM   #26
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oh my.. you are an old timer with a tip like that
No wheelchairs here Tom... I wear my loaded bags (almost) every day.

I do hope that my next set of bags has a pouch just for my Ibuprofen.

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