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Old 05-07-2012, 01:26 PM   #1
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


I have been researching this online and I am getting conflicting reports on how to install cedar shingle siding. What are you guys doing. I am in the process of re-siding my hosuse and we decided to try out cedar shingle gable ends. Hoping its not to difficult for a first timer. I have two gable ends and the area of each is about 50 square feet, so my first quetion is now much shingles do I get? Is it just like roofing materials? 3 bundles to 1 square and 1 square is 100 sq ft?

I understand the layouts and such and how to get it started but I cant find a good way to nail it.. Some places say nail each shingle 2 times at the top and 2 times at the bottom, other places say nail several times in in the area where it will be hidden by the next coarse of shingles so you don't see any fasterners. Some places say use staples, others say use naisl.

I have 3 options, hand nail using whatever nails are best, I also own an 18g brad nailer/stapler combo nailer, and a roofing nailer.

Can you guys set me straight on how this stuff works?? Thanks in advance!

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Old 05-07-2012, 02:22 PM   #2
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I use 7/16 X 1 ” Stainless Steel staples on shingles (not shakes) and small (5d) SS ring shank siding nails when the fasteners have to be exposed (under windows, last coarse, etc).

Staples hold better than nails for shingles because the crown of the staple bridges over the grain of the wood to hold it down.

Generally just 2 staples per shingle no more than an inch above the line where the next course will cover.

There are 4 bundles to a square based on a 5” exposure not counting waste.

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Old 05-07-2012, 08:50 PM   #3
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


i pretty much do the same as kwik. the smaller the exposure per coure the more shingles you'll need. installing a rain screen behind the shingles first will greatly lengten the life of the shingles, be it via "cedar breather" or privacy lattice
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:15 PM   #4
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http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...003_par008.htm

Hit "next section" on those pages to read more.

Gary
P.S. You need 16 gauge.....
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Old 05-07-2012, 10:19 PM   #5
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


As in Audel's Carpenters & Builders Guide (1923), only two nails per shingle no matter what width, 1/2" to 3/4" in from the edge, 1" above the bottom of the next course. (Staples each penetrate twice 2 X 2 = 4 nails and movement causes 4 splits over time). every shingle in the next row should cover both joint and nail of the row below by at least 1/2". Also look at the grain, if there are fuzzy ends pointing up, the ends of the grain allows water to soak into the shingle. Turn the shingle around so water runs out over the grain. Cedar shakes expand & contract with humidity so space them 1/8" or more depending on size, a little more for larger shakes. I have seen a few guys cut the bottom edge 2" in, at a 45 degree angle where the shingle meets the rake so there is no "short grain" to dry and break off
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duckweather View Post
As in Audel's Carpenters & Builders Guide (1923), only two nails per shingle no matter what width, 1/2" to 3/4" in from the edge, 1" above the bottom of the next course. (Staples each penetrate twice 2 X 2 = 4 nails and movement causes 4 splits over time). every shingle in the next row should cover both joint and nail of the row below by at least 1/2". Also look at the grain, if there are fuzzy ends pointing up, the ends of the grain allows water to soak into the shingle. Turn the shingle around so water runs out over the grain. Cedar shakes expand & contract with humidity so space them 1/8" or more depending on size, a little more for larger shakes. I have seen a few guys cut the bottom edge 2" in, at a 45 degree angle where the shingle meets the rake so there is no "short grain" to dry and break off
The rules have changed since 1923.
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Old 05-08-2012, 05:47 PM   #7
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2 nails will work for smaller shingles but for wider ones you'll need more when they start getting wider than 6" so to keep them lying flat
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:54 PM   #8
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I can not stress the point enough that
staples hold sidewall shingles better than nails.

I’ve tore off more than my share of Cedar Shingle Siding and before the new job begins, you prey there nailed.

Nailed shingles just “pop” off the wall. Tear them off, beat in the nails and done.

Stapled shingles…not so fun. You’re literally breaking the shingles off the wall. You end up with all those staples left with a chunk of Cedar Meat stuck underneath. You have to blast every staple with a cats paw to clean it up.

25 years ago stapled sheathing was ok, not anymore. Stapled Roofing was all the craze for awhile too, you don’t see that anymore (in my area anyway).

For Cedar Sidewall Shingles, nothing holds like staples.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:17 PM   #9
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


Quote:
Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
The rules have changed since 1923.

what rules have changed?
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Old 05-09-2012, 09:12 AM   #10
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I dont know much about siding, but I had a question since sometime this summer I need to side a small area above my garage. Ive seen people place a strip of wood across the wooden shakes when installing. I was wondering what the purpose for this is? Im assuming it gets placed to mark where the next row gets installed?
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Old 05-09-2012, 05:49 PM   #11
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Quote:
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what rules have changed?
Well Tom, I guess the answer would be none, since in 1923 there were no rules yet (out West anyway).
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Old 05-09-2012, 06:29 PM   #12
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


staples definitley have holding power in sheathing but severely lacks in shear strenght, they dont keep the plywood for racking.

for roofing they dont have the holding power on asphalt shingles themselves as their isnt enough surface contact to keep the shingle from blowing off


as for sidewall shingles.. ive torn off 100's of squares of cedar off of homes and the nails hold fine if its nailed to t&g boards, now if its osb thats a totally different story
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:00 AM   #13
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capecodder,
When I did the siding on our house I'd snap a chalk line for the next course then tack a 1X1/2" strip to the line. That way I could just set the shingle on the ledge and staple it in place. Much easier and quicker than trying to eyeball the bottom edge to the line.
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Old 05-10-2012, 06:33 AM   #14
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capecodder,
When I did the siding on our house I'd snap a chalk line for the next course then tack a 1X1/2" strip to the line. That way I could just set the shingle on the ledge and staple it in place. Much easier and quicker than trying to eyeball the bottom edge to the line.
I've never been a fan of that method. Even though it may make it easier for some to maintain a straight line your "tack" still leaves a holes in the siding.

Even if the holes don't penetrate the weather barrier there still visible and shouldn't be there.

I snap lines using "white" chalk and hold the shingle just slightly below that line.

To each there own I guess.
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Old 05-10-2012, 07:27 AM   #15
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how to install cedar shingle siding?


That is kind of what I didnt want, to have small holes where the strip is temporarily fastened. I will try the chalk line method. As far as the shakes, should they be installed right up against the trim or should i leave a small gap for expansion?

Thanks!

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