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vintageQN 10-01-2011 09:59 PM

How do I remodel a problem window halfway into shower stall?
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In the process of purchasing a 1922 Bungalow and need help with the bathroom. Its our first home, it only has 1 bathroom. The bathroom has two large windows, one over toilet and the other creeping into the shower stall. I want to remove the pathetic choices of tile. The main concern is the windows and creating a mold problem. Secondly, without re-positioning plumbing, nor taking out the craftsman styled windows, How can I fix this bathroom? I need a picture of a similar layout. preferably one that includes both a shower and tub, even separated. Any help, ideas, tips will be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Willie T 10-01-2011 10:27 PM

I might consider reducing the height of the wall by two or three feet, then replacing that section with a single pane of Lexan.

jklingel 10-02-2011 12:20 AM

Or, remove the window and frame it in. A window in a shower stall makes little sense to me, but you may like it; so may the neighbors.

ddawg16 10-02-2011 04:07 AM

I know this is not any help.....but my Air Force barrics back in in the 70's was better than that.....

I think the windows are the least of your problems...

If it was me...the bath and wall would come out....I would re-arrange the bath so that it was against the wall where the sink is...replumb so the sink is nex to the toilet....and build the wall at the end of the bath next to the door way....

This would then make the windows fully exposed and open to the bathroom.

$49 Handyman 10-02-2011 08:47 AM

Bath remodel

Originally Posted by vintageQN (Post 739962)
without re-positioning plumbing, nor taking out the craftsman styled windows, How can I fix this bathroom?

Here's the biggest obstacle you're facing with your current layout: all the plumbing lines, vents and drains and are in that facing 'wet wall.' You state that you don't want to replumb the bath, but it looks from the colors and styles of the tile that this bath was last updated in the late 60's/early 70's. In that case you may end up re-plumbing anyway if you encounter a lot of rusted galvanized pipe...just be prepared for this contingency once the walls are opened up!

I like the previous posters idea to lower the partition wall between the tub and toilet, at least below the window, then possibly capping it with a wide 1x12 for a nice shelf. One option that more clients are at least considering these days is an open wet floor where the entire bath floor is sloped to a new center drain, which could be tied into the existing tub drain if the subfloor is removed (or there's access from below either in the crawl space or by cutting ceiling sheetrock.) This allows the entire room to be treated as a shower and allows you to ditch the old tub and have one nice big walk in shower area that leaves the wall-mounted sink as is. You can always add new tiled benches and foot rests for the ladies to shave their legs on against the existing walls under the window.

I just don't see enough room to ditch the tub and build a half wall with a walk-in door towards the toilet side and glass enclosure above the half wall unless you're willing to move the wall mounted sink more to the right. Even then that's a tight fit.

Would be helpful to see a dimensioned diagram of the entire floor bath plan as I can't tell what's behind you from where you took the pic. Laundry closet? Vanity? Any other plumbing drains, sinks, etc? Your most cost efficient solution might simply be to update the tile, the sink and the fixtures. New rain glass inserts could be installed in the old windows for more privacy if that's a concern. Also, make sure there's an exhaust fan in the bath vented to outside air, not the attic. Mold occurs in dark, damp, warm conditions most often, so you definitely want lots of air flow in a bathroom and older baths often don't have this exhaust fan. One last line of defense when you retile is to use a product like Red Guard (or an equal) to seal all the seams of the new hardibacker you'll be installing on the walls and floors. It paints on a thick, neon pink color and dries to a dark barn-door red and waterproofs all the seams. I use it on all my bath tile jobs at the seams as an insurance policy against water getting behind the hardibacker. Hope this is helpful, CL.

Blondesense 10-02-2011 12:08 PM

I like ddawg's idea of repositioning the tub.

If you are avoiding moving stuff around because of money, IMHO taking that section of wall down a bit would be your best bet. The question then becomes: Then what? If you want to use the top of it as a shelf for the shower you need to not only enclose it, but support the shower curtain. I'm having a hard time picturing this without it either looking jury-rigged or getting expensive with a custom enclosure.

If you take the wall down and make a shelf usable for the toilet side, you could enclose the shower with a corner curtain rod something like one of these (Not endorsing either, just using them as examples.)

Knowing a ball park of you budget would help if you want reasonable suggestions.

Msradell 10-02-2011 03:16 PM

Could you give us a sketch of the rooms overall size and dimensions shown the placement of the existing fixtures. We may be able to come up with some interesting ideas for you.

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