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-   -   how to cover foundation footing on interior (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/how-cover-foundation-footing-interior-106605/)

JRP_24 06-04-2011 06:00 PM

how to cover foundation footing on interior
 
I removed my half brick and half wood paneled walls in a converted garage to find the framing only goes to the foumdation footing. So there is about two feet of exposed foundation (interior wall) that I stumped on how the best way to proceed is. Hoping the forumn can lay out the options for me. New walls? Fur out walls and bring framing all the way down? Other ideas? Your help is much appreciated! Most ideal would be floor to cieling drywall but am open to other ideas?

jklingel 06-06-2011 12:26 AM

Am confused. Framing going to footing is "all the way down." Brick is over wood? Under? What are you trying to do? Insulate? Reinforce? Build out?

oh'mike 06-06-2011 06:40 AM

I think what the OP has is an 8" foundation wall 2' high and a 2x4 wall on top of the foundation'

The easiest is to fur out the foundation with 2x2s then bring out the face of the stud wall to match that--

Either sister in more studs or rip furring strips to the right size (on a table saw) and apply to the face of the existing wall.

Ron6519 06-06-2011 06:50 AM

Post a picture of what you have.

JRP_24 06-06-2011 10:32 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Picture of what I working with....

Thanks for the great replies! Furring out walls are definitely an option but may be difficult for a first time framer like myself. Also thinking of possibly covering the foundation footing with some stone, say pebbles, and just use the rest of existing framing for sheetrock. Good idea? Or horrible idea?

Jerimy

Ron6519 06-06-2011 11:49 AM

I would think furring out the wall would be an easier solution unless your a mason.

jklingel 06-06-2011 11:54 AM

OK, now I see; no monolithic pour. I see some problems already. Treated lumber (TimberSil, or that corrosive copper stuff) should be used against concrete, and below grade, IMO. If that foil faced insulation is below grade, you are setting yourself up for a disaster. Your wall needs to breathe, and it can't breathe out, so it needs to breathe in. Vapor barriers below grade can be a disaster. You can read about basements on buildingscience.com and get some ideas of what to do; foam insulation is the best option, IMO.

JRP_24 06-06-2011 12:15 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm not sure it's below grade....current framing is over a foot above the outside ground....another picture may provide better clarification.

Also, why do you believe I need to be a mason to put up some pebble wall tile on the concrete? Am I overlooking something?

Thanks!

moneymgmt 06-06-2011 12:16 PM

Concrete looks pretty rough, I'd go the furring strip route. I cannot figure out why anyone would have build a brick 1/2 wall like that. Any idea?

jklingel 06-06-2011 12:25 PM

Just be aware that vapor barriers are being shied away from, everywhere but MAYBE the coldest places in the US. If you ever run AC, you could get massive condensation in your walls. Air seal, but no vapor barrier. Myself, I'd take that foil crap out of there. No idea what went on before you moved in; that brick wall may have been a previous building of some sort.

Ron6519 06-06-2011 12:55 PM

"Also, why do you believe I need to be a mason to put up some pebble wall tile on the concrete? Am I overlooking something?"
Applying stones to a concrete wall would be a mason's line of work. To get it to look good, you would need experience.
Bumping out the wall would be much easier and the end result would look better.

JRP_24 06-06-2011 02:19 PM

Ok, so remove foil and vapor barrier and replace with foam insulation and bring out framing. Is furring out the walls a project for the someone with no framing experience? What $ might I be looking at to contract out, room is 19 X 10? Thanks again.

Ron6519 06-06-2011 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRP_24 (Post 662144)
Ok, so remove foil and vapor barrier and replace with foam insulation and bring out framing. Is furring out the walls a project for the someone with no framing experience? What $ might I be looking at to contract out, room is 19 X 10? Thanks again.

On the concrete part, you'd use 1x2's or 1x3's. To the framing you'd measure to the face of the 1x3 and rip a 2x3 or 2x4 to whatever dimension you need and screw it to the wood already there.
You could make it even easier by using standard lumber above and filling in on the concrete the thickness of wood you need to have a plumb wall.
How far does the concrete project out past the wood wall?

JRP_24 06-06-2011 03:58 PM

One wall the concrete projects out half an inch another wall is more like 2 inches...

Ron6519 06-06-2011 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRP_24 (Post 662197)
One wall the concrete projects out half an inch another wall is more like 2 inches...

The 1/2" wall with a 1x3 on the bottom would use 5/4" on top. You'd have 1/8" difference between the two without having to rip any wood.
The 2" wall with a 1x3 on the bottom, you would use a 2x3 on top with a 1/4 " difference that could be shimmed using starter shingles. Or you could build a stud wall out of 2x3's and set it flush with the 1x3 bottom plane.
This will take a good deal of material.


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