How to butt wood stud wall to steel stud wall?

Yorkergizer · 11-30-2007, 03:54 PM

My basement came with steel stud framing to insulate the exterior walls. I'm doing the additional framing with wood (2x4), but I'm not sure how to butt the wood walls up to the existing steel framing.

Specifically, I will be inserting two wood studs into the metal tracks to provide backing for drywall at the corners, as well as a surface to attach the butted wall to (shown in the picture below). My question is, how do I screw the backside of the wood stud to the steel track (indicated by the red arrow), since I can't access the track from behind due to the close proximity of the concrete basement wall to the track. Do I even need to screw it in?

Thanks for any help/advice you can give!
Louis.

skymaster · 11-30-2007, 07:59 PM

Use a cat to attach to the flanges on the rear steel stud, have it already attached to the stud. just like a "T" . Also attach same program to front to use a 'rock" support and nailer.

Chris Johnson · 11-30-2007, 08:08 PM

Instead of building the 'L' that you have in the picture, use a 2x6 and screw just through the face of the stud track.

why not just finish the basement in steel studs?

Yorkergizer · 12-01-2007, 01:28 AM

Thanks for the suggestions Chris and skymaster.

skymaster: I think I follow what you're saying (attach the bottom-pointing end of the T to the stud, then use the top arm to attach to the studs?), but I'm not sure what material you are suggesting. Forgive my ignorance, but what is a "cat" when it comes to this?

Chris: The 2x6 sounds like a good suggestion. I used the 'L' because that is how "the books" suggested butting walls. I assumed the 'L' also adds a structural support in addition to providing surfaces for the drywall to attach to. From what you're saying, the purpose of this addition to the existing track is solely for the drywall, and serves no structural purpose, with the top and bottom plates of the new wall providing more than enough structural support for the new wall and connections? Or does using a 2x6 sideways like your suggest provide the necessary additional structural support that the L would?

The existing steel studs were in place when I moved in. I considered both steel and wood framing, but after doing some research, decided wood would be easier for me to work with. I had all the necessary tools, and more knowledge of wood framing (though, as you can tell, not nearly enough!), and cost-wise wood framing worked out to be a bit cheaper for me (in part because I was lucky enough to receive a good portion of the 2x4 material for free from a family member). As a side benefit, I enjoy working with wood more than metal, not that that is a good reason for choosing it as a construction material...

Sorry for the potentially ignorant questions, and thanks again for your help!

Louis.