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Old 10-29-2008, 05:09 AM   #1
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house with NO sill plate


I used to live in one of those,,,and hated it,,,cold air POURED into crawl space from the holes on top of the blocks,,when it gets 30 below and winds howl at 50-70 mph!!! (Nebraskas finest weather!!)

I find out while I was UNDER these side by side SMALL houses, single story ranch, 19' bye 30' all total.,,,that who ever uilt them in the late 40 early 50 era.,,,they cut lots of corners and decided the sill plate was a waste of lumber. Was thinking of jacking the whole house up and putting a PT sill plate underneath rim joist on TOP of blocks with proper sill sealer,,,BUT these houses are heavier than they look.

MAIN problem with than is I need to lift cast stack and all as well as cast lateral that drains OUT of the house. other problem is gas line comes in thru block wall also. Only solution to all that is cutting cast ALL off and replacing with PVC, clear out to outside block wall where it exits crawl space. And all the way out thru the roof. disconnect gas line and go that way.

Question is,,is there an easier way to get same results?? LOOKED at 2" dense pink foam board and it said R-10. How well would it work to cover (glue to)the 3 rows of blocks with pink board,,,throw enough dirt up to the footings( covering bottom 6 inches of pink board with dirt to keep it there!!),,,which are all exposed inside the crawl. Then cut small rectangles to glue on to top of blocks between floor joists,exactly and another to cover surface of rim joist. idea is to raise temp in crawl to avoid freezing pipes and warmer wood floors,,,have heat duct piped down there anyway!!

So which is MORE practical??? Can I POSSIBLY keep the mice out of the pink stuff to have it last from noon to dinner??

Only way I can see it to raise one side at a time,, I only have 3 - 12 ton jacks and one 20 ton one,,would need ALOT of them to lift all at once. AND that crawl space is HARD to work in and get long material in to. the center is jacked up now with my footings and piers blocking project!!

would all those small pieces in the rim joist areas have to be caulked in so NO air leaks past anywhere??

AND while I am asking,,mennards had 2 different grades of the pink stuff,,BOTH said hi density,both R-10,,one was $18 something a sheet and other was 22 bucks plus change. I didnt see the difference,,what is the difference??
Thanks for reading this far. -d-

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Old 10-29-2008, 05:15 AM   #2
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house with NO sill plate


Is there anyone in your area that installs spray insulation. This works like Great Stuff. It would seal every crack and crevice.

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Old 10-29-2008, 06:20 AM   #3
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house with NO sill plate


It's not uncommon to find houses all over the country that have no sill plates. It's a lot of work to jack an entire structure just to put one in. Why not foam the cores of the block to stop air infiltration and then insulate the floor joist cavities with fiberglass?
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:43 AM   #4
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house with NO sill plate


If there isn't a problem then don't fix it. Not having a sill plate is not a big deal as long as it is working. And with temperature variations from -30 to 120 and winds at 70 it seems so be working fine.

Your insulation is broken for sure.

Rodents is always a big problem almost everywhere.

If you can afford it polyethylene foam has the highest R rating of anything out there. It is more wind resistant than anything out there and it is animal proof since nothing wants to bore into it.

Can't do it yourself since it requires a large truck and lots of material.

If that doesn't work then get some fiberglass and then cap the underside or your joists with OSB. We do that in the desert homes to keep the animals out.
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Old 10-29-2008, 10:45 PM   #5
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house with NO sill plate


Thanks for the insulation idea.

Like I see on Holmes on Homes???,,,what do they call that stuff?? My trusty dusty yeller pages shows somebody as a "Cellutec" dealer,,,is that ONE name for it?? I see another calls there spray on product Weatherguard urethane. Sounds expensive but sure it would help a ton. I live in a small town of about 20K in the middle of the sticks soooooooo one of these guys is an out of town supplier. Guess tommorrow my fingers do the walking!!

I recently moved into an old house too,,,obviously it is NOT as weather/air tight as I hoped it was. It has an old ledge type baement. If this works as planned I was going to have my rim joist area and inside blocks down to top of ledge sprayed with this stuff too.(IN this house,my own) My sidewalls were blown full before the siding went on,,along with new replacement windows most recently. Unfortunately the darn siding installer I had talked me out of the tyvek wrap,,,I feel a breeze across the floor all the time and the temps have JUST dipped down to the 20's,,,whats it going to be like at 30 below??

My question of the day,,,any other place to spray an OLD house to prevent air infiltration!!????

On NOT insulating the crawl space joists,,,I WANT the heat to penetrate down there,,,to keep the pipes in the crawl space warmer. if it gets too cold down there I would have broken pipes and MORE projects to fix!! I want to keep cold OUT of the crawl perimeter.

NOW how to figure out a goof proof crawl space door to the outside world,,well weatherproofed,,,any suggestions??? Its like 3 conc. blocks long,2 blocks wide and LOOKS like a window well,,, opening UP outside,,,and another hole in the wall of the horizontal wall for a 90 degree access. was thinking of 3/8 plate steel with a bit of pitch to shed water. hardest part is where the door/plate meets the 'siding' of the house. OR 2 bye lumber for strength with tin covering for weather resistance!!
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