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07-12-2008, 11:03 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: north east
Posts: 728
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Holes in the top plate
I'm looking into my options for doing blown in insulation. Read about removing the top portion of the aluminum siding, don't care to patch numerous holes on the interior of the house. I came across on two different sites, one being Cellulose.org where they mention the option of drilling into the top plates of the exterior walls from the attic. Keeping my options open, I want to consider this. My question and concern would that it weaken the top plate with so many holes drilled into it. on this site's sister contractor site, only go to read a couple comments, one saying it weakens, one saying they do it that way a lot. I'd appreciate any thoughts on this.
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07-12-2008, 11:13 AM
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#2
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
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Holes in the top plate
You can drill holes up to 50% of the top plate's diameter, provided that your loads stack. That means your rafters and ceiling joists line up with your studs. If you have loads landing on the top plate between the studs, I'd suggest that you don't get too crazy drilling holes, as it can weaken the top plates' ability to span the distance between the studs and support the loads.
I'd be hesitant to allow an insulator to do any drilling into the structure of my house. There are other ways to do it that just involve little wall patches.
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07-12-2008, 11:38 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: north east
Posts: 728
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Holes in the top plate
KC, I was hopeing for a reply from you, I would be doing the insulating my self, trying to do my homework on it. I have plaster walls, I've done lots of patching, but not enough to get real good at it, don't want to finish up and see the evidence left behind. By rough measurents walking around outside with a tape, have about 104 bays, its a ranch so if I have the option of trying from the attic, I think I would get better results. For under windows, I would remove the baseboards to make a hole. Also am planning on using 1" holes, thanks for the response. I appreciate your views on this site.
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07-12-2008, 02:38 PM
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#4
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Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 25
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Holes in the top plate
Do you have crown moulding?
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07-12-2008, 02:58 PM
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#5
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
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Holes in the top plate
You will probably have to rent an angle drill in order to make drilling easier under the rafters in the attic...Depending on how tight it is. Personally, I'd use it as an excuse to tell my wife that I have to buy a new drill.
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07-12-2008, 03:48 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: north east
Posts: 728
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Holes in the top plate
No crown molding, and I did give thought to adding it to the rooms, but still like from the attic the best. As for the angle drill, have given thought to needing one, its going to be a tight fit up there, I'll either go buy one or my boss will let me use one from work, thanks for the ideas.
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07-13-2008, 05:28 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: north east
Posts: 728
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Holes in the top plate
Well, I checked out the attic today. As was mentioned above, its a very tight spot. I'd be more apt to drill a hole right out through the side of the house instead of into the wall cavity. I'll have to go with removing some of the siding to get at it. thanks again.
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07-13-2008, 11:02 PM
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#8
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Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520
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Holes in the top plate
What kind of siding do you have? Holes can be patched pretty easily with Rock Hard Water Putty or a similar exterior patch product.
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07-14-2008, 06:12 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: north east
Posts: 728
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Holes in the top plate
its aluminum siding, its a ranch so I don't have to go up real far, I'll just try to be very careful about pulling off the top one or two sections., There is one section near the meter box that I'll do from somewhere besides near the power line.
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07-15-2008, 09:53 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 233
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Holes in the top plate
holes in plaster are easy to repair. just use durabond 90 setting type compound first (which does not shrink or crack and bonds to plaster good) then use a coat of something that sands easy to finish it like the regular joint compound in the pail. i think you could drill a hole in the plaster, then use the angle drill to drill a hole through each adjacent stud to put the insulation in through. that way there would be only 1/3rd as many holes to fill in the plaster.
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