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08-21-2010, 07:38 PM   #1
Newbie

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HELP - shed project instructions wrong?

Hi everyone. I am desperate for some help please. And I am a real newbie at this so please forgive what may seem obvious to most of you.

I am building the Sunlight Garden Shed from plans printed in this book. (it is the shed illustrated on this cover)

I got the foundation built and the rear wall done. When I started doing the cutting for the front wall per these instructions, I noticed what I believe is an error. In the "For the Front Wall" paragraph (Step 4) which I've circled here in this scan of the page from the book, it says to "Cut four 2 x 4 window sills (311 1/16")". Now.... that can't be right, can it? That's almost 26 feet!

Here is the layout for the front framing (page 105).

Can anyone help me understand this? Is it an error? If it is, how can I figure out what length they should really be cut to?

08-21-2010, 08:32 PM   #2
Old School

Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them.
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It's 31 inches and 1/16" of an inch..... 31-1/16".

Notice that your two center windows are marked 2' 10-1/16" overall to the centers of the studwork. (Panel "A")

That's 34-1/16".

The sills are shorter than that by a stud thickness on each side.

A stud is 1-1/2" thick....... there two of them (one on each side of the sills)

Two stud thicknesses = 3"

34-1/16" minus 3" = 31-1/16".

But according to your plans, you will be cutting 12 pieces to that length for that wall (Panel "A"), not 4. The lower portion of that drawing shows what appears to be a double sill and a header of the same length.

And then the upper part of the window wall gets 12 more at the same 31-1/16" length.

Maybe the other pieces are called by another name somewhere. I'm guessing some of them will be your ripped window stops. If so, then.... no problem.

************************************

Just for your edification, this is not your fault. The drafter of those plans should have never combined architectural and fractional dimensions on the same page. In other words, it should have all been drawn in either feet and inches, or in strictly inches. All in inches would have been preferable. And besides that, he/she flat goofed with that typo of 311 instead of 31.

__________________
"True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is."
François Duc de La Rochefoucauld
Willie T

Last edited by Willie T; 08-21-2010 at 09:52 PM.

 08-21-2010, 09:38 PM #3 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 Personally, I would be more suspicious of that 3' 1-1/16" measurement on the ends. Sit down and figure it out as I showed you in my example above (using 1-1/2" for stud thicknesses). I cannot really see your drawings clearly, but that math does not add up correctly for me. I hope I'm wrong. ************************* OK, I just blew the view up to 300%. I now see they have a 3-1/2" offset at the bottom..... probably to allow for the siding. I guess that's close enough. I have to admit that I might have had to have redrawn those plans before I'd be totally comfortable with them. __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T Last edited by Willie T; 08-21-2010 at 09:50 PM.

 08-21-2010, 10:52 PM #4 Newbie   Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Washington state (city of Covington) Posts: 13 Rewards Points: 10 Wow! Thanks Willie. I was really really hoping I wouldn't have to employ my less-than-stellar math skills in all of this. I tried to find a real carpenter/shed builder to help me with this - without any luck. I'll just take it nice and slow and try really hard not to make too many mistakes.
 08-22-2010, 04:48 PM #5 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 Did they send you THIS VIDEO? It doesn't show much, but maybe you can "freeze-frame" parts to help you understand some of the construction details. I do have a question, having watched this video. Is there a "water holding" ledge created at the bottoms of the upper window panes? In other words, will rain collect there and sit there till it evaporates? (Seen best at about 40 or 41 seconds into the video) __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T Last edited by Willie T; 08-22-2010 at 05:29 PM.
 08-22-2010, 05:39 PM #6 Newbie   Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Washington state (city of Covington) Posts: 13 Rewards Points: 10 Hi Willie. I hadn't seen the video but after watching it, the pics are all included in the book. And in looking closely at both the pics and plans, I can't see any way for water to drain from the windows. :-( I'll try and scan the details of the windows and post them here. I am totally and completely open to suggestions as to how to improve this. I did get the front wall built today so I feel like I'm making progress. I am VERY grateful for your insight!! Thank you in advance so much!
 08-22-2010, 07:49 PM #7 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 I realize this is not an accurate depiction of your slanted glass wall, but the idea is the same. If your plans call for square sills (the ones I've shown as red pieces), you could always bevel them enough to create a negative angle (from horizontal) to allow rain to flow off. See how I've drawn the free floating pieces? One is square, and the farthest one out is beveled. Attached Thumbnails       __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T
 08-22-2010, 08:06 PM #8 Newbie   Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Washington state (city of Covington) Posts: 13 Rewards Points: 10 Ah yes..... here are the window plan details - and it appears there is a 45 degree bevel. Am I reading this correctly, and is this what you're illustrating?
 08-22-2010, 08:11 PM #9 Newbie   Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Washington state (city of Covington) Posts: 13 Rewards Points: 10 Also, as I'm thinking about the next step - which is building the side walls, I realize that I need to reverse the plans for each side as I want the door on the left side, rather than the right side as shone in the picture. Here's the scan of the right and left side framing plans. If I just mirror the plans and follow the instructions, will that work? Here's the mirrored scans of the left and right side wall plans.
 08-22-2010, 08:23 PM #10 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 You're dead on. There is a 45 degree bevel cut there. The only problem I can see is that the glass wall appears to be tilted 45 degrees also. That leaves you with a perfectly flat sill. It really should have a few degrees of negative runoff. Not a whole lot, but enough for the rain not to just sit there. On the reversing, I see no reason that would not work just fine. __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T
 08-22-2010, 08:43 PM #11 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 One thing I might do is change the lower 2x2 window stop to the shape of the piece I have shown as blue here. As it is in the plans, your glass will be resting against a sharp corner. As drawn in blue, there will be about an inch of flat surface to support the bottom edge of glass. I would also look at this same sort of alteration on the top window stop if it is shown the same way the bottom is. Glass likes to be supported on wider surfaces, not on sharp corners or edges. Attached Images   __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T Last edited by Willie T; 08-22-2010 at 09:11 PM.
 08-22-2010, 10:09 PM #12 Newbie   Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Washington state (city of Covington) Posts: 13 Rewards Points: 10 Great idea, Willie. You've been so very helpful to me with this! Thank you so much very much! One thing though - it isn't glass. The plans say it is "1/4" thick, clear plastic glazing". Not quite sure where I'm going to find something like that though. Do you think glass will be more suitable? If not, do you know where I might look for thick, clear plastic glazing?
 08-22-2010, 10:29 PM #13 Old School     Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: St. Petersburg, FL Minds of moderate caliber ordinarily condemn everything which is beyond them. Posts: 3,634 Rewards Points: 2,000 Lexan is probably the best, but Plexiglas will work. Go online, check the Yellow Pages, or call a local building supply house. Home Depot sells 4'x8' Lexan sheets for about \$165 usa. __________________ "True eloquence consists in saying all that is necessary, and only that which is." François Duc de La Rochefoucauld Willie T Last edited by Willie T; 08-22-2010 at 10:31 PM.
08-25-2010, 01:44 AM   #14
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Does anyone know in the drawings in this thread from the book what they mean by "left side framing"? Is it the left side if you are standing in front of the building? or is it the left side of the building if you are standing in it facing the front of the building?

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