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Old 12-09-2010, 12:28 PM   #1
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


Hello all, first time poster here.

I’m renovating my kitchen and dining room area… it had a low 7’ ceiling that was covered in plaster popcorn. Well the roof over this area and the living room area is all flat, and I figured I could raise the ceiling a couple of feet higher.

Ripped down the majority of the ceiling - no insulation at all.

And I just wanted to verify with you all that these beams are NOT support beams, I want to rip them all out and put R-13 insulation on the rafters and cover with drywall.

Can I take these beams out? They are just toenailed in to a 2x4’s around the perimeter… but as you see in the cinderblock wall/mock fireplace, there is a huge beam, but I think that is only there to hold up that one area, which a shelving unit.

If you want more pic’s let me know, because I would also like to take out all these cinder blocks and fireplace.

Thanks all for the help!
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Old 12-09-2010, 12:30 PM   #2
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


o yes, that silver pipe running through the middle of the hole place... no idea what it is for!

It goes to the wall and stops, then goes to the garage and stops. Does not actualy connect to anything, just one long pipe for no reason.

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Old 12-10-2010, 11:12 AM   #3
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


Can't give you structural info on the cross braces but the pipe looks familiar... without seeing it closer I'd say 3 1/2" duct work from the furnace. Is it hollow like ducting? That's what my house had from the early 50's until I gutted it. If HVAC has been replaced it may have been cut off and just left in the dead space; easier than trying to remove. Good luck, I love the idea of vaulting the ceiling, hopefully you can get some answers.
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Old 12-10-2010, 11:55 AM   #4
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


if it IS duct work, it's the most heavy duty stuff i've ever seen... when you tap on it, it sounds like it's solid steel... it's welded together in the center, probebly 3/8" solid steel.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:03 PM   #5
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


not duct then. Nothing the other side of either wall it touches? You've got me stumped. Cast drains/vents wouldn't be welded I don't believe, and that's a heck of a long horizontal run anyway.
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Old 12-10-2010, 12:50 PM   #6
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


The 'beams' I'm seeing look like ceiling joists. They only held up the ceiling. You could move them up higher for a higher ceiling. I'm not sure about putting the ceiling directly on the bottom of the roof. It might not be able to support the extra weight of the ceilng. The ceiling might also crack from the roof flexing.
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Old 12-11-2010, 02:50 AM   #7
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


as far as the pipe, no, both ends of the pipe go right to the aluminum siding, nothing going anywhere... thats why it dosent make any sence!

So as far as installing the ceiling, I should put up new ceiling joists, just a couple inches below the roof? then throw the insulation in there and grywall it up?
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:01 AM   #8
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


Those rafters look way undersized, I can see them sagging from here.

I’d be looking into beefing them up before worrying about your ceiling height.

You have it opened up, make the structure sound while you have the chance.
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Old 12-11-2010, 09:59 AM   #9
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


The flat roof was "repaired" about 7 years ago. You can see the newer boards in a couple of locations. Since then, about a year ago the ceiling started to leak and punched a hole in the middle of the room for the water to drain down onto the floor. It would leak then stop for months then leak again.

About a month ago we finally got a roofer out here and found that the roof itself is fine, the water was pouring in from a bad seal around the Skylight... water would drain right into the skylight and travel all the way (about 20 feet away) to this spot which must have been the lowest part of the ceiling.

The roof joists are standard size 2x4's that are 20' long (i never knew they made 20' long 2x4's) which have no cracks or anything in any of them.

So, I will remove all of the ceiling joists, then how do i "beef up" the roof joists? And will I be able to put the new drywall right on these new beefed up roof joists?

Thanks again!
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Old 12-11-2010, 12:04 PM   #10
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


The roof joists are standard size 2x4's that are 20' long (i never knew they made 20' long 2x4's) which have no cracks or anything in any of them.
There is nothing standard about 2x4 rafters spanning 20' in fact it’s closer to unheard of.

So, I will remove all of the ceiling joists, then how do i "beef up" the roof joists?
By adding larger rafters alone side of the existing. The size of rafter would have to be calculated.

And will I be able to put the new drywall right on these new beefed up roof joists?
More than likely. Your answers will be dictated by local code.
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Old 12-11-2010, 05:13 PM   #11
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


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Originally Posted by Integraoligist View Post
then how do i "beef up" the roof joists? And will I be able to put the new drywall right on these new beefed up roof joists?
Why don't you call up your building inspector and ask him since you need permits and inspections to do what you're doing. You need an architect or engineer to figure this.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:11 PM   #12
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


finally got a hold of my buddy that builds homes... he came in and we are crossing the rafters with 10x8 boards every 24" over the entire span... once we have them in place we can remove eveyrthing else.

Decided to use a drop ceiling instead of drywall so if the house ever shift it will not crack the drywall... plus it's easy access if we decide to move lights and such.
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:44 PM   #13
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Help with ripping down beams on ceiling.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Integraoligist View Post
finally got a hold of my buddy that builds homes... he came in and we are crossing the rafters with 10x8 boards every 24" over the entire span... once we have them in place we can remove eveyrthing else.

Decided to use a drop ceiling instead of drywall so if the house ever shift it will not crack the drywall... plus it's easy access if we decide to move lights and such.
What about getting a hold of your building inspector?

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