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Help Repair Garage Wall - Advice

15K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  dmaceld 
#1 ·
This is my first post, so I apologize if I don't offer enough information.

I'm attempting to repair a garage wall because of rot due to lots and lots of dirt being against it (outside). It's a 2 car garage with wood siding, and just 1 side is rotting, I'd say from ground level to about 4 feet up. The section of rot is about 10 ft. wide. It's stick built, I believe, as far as there are studs on the inside, wood siding outside. Also on the interior (I don't know why) is some type of particle board behind the wood siding, which is moisture damaged and rotting.

Anyway I have removed most all of the dirt from this wall, and am going to remove the rotten siding and particle board, leaving the studs as they seem to look good. I would like to build a partial cinder block and mortar wall instead of just replacing the wood. So that from ground up there would be cinderblock and then around 4/5 ft or so the existing wood siding would resume.

I hope I've painted a good picture. Anyway, is there anything special I need to follow for building a cinderblock wall? Do I need to pour a concrete foundation/trench below the cinderblocks to prevent heaving? I know I should lay the blocks below the frost line. Could I line the bottom with a gravel trench and then lay the blocks and mortar?

I'm fairly handy around the house, I recently gutted a room and replaced plaster and lathe with drywall, did all the mudding, sanding and painting... moulding and finishing work. I've gutted and redone a bathroom as well (supply lines and compression fittings... eh not fun).

Anyway what do you all think? I'd like any opinions. I mean, I could just replace the wood with pressure treated wood, etc... but I'm just hoping cinderblock has more longevity. How would I go about joining the cinderblock with the wood above? Or would I just have it meet, and then caulk the place it meets?

Any and all advice is welcome. I just want to figure out the best/cost effective and relatively easiest solution to this. Also, if I wanted to repair the interior wall, right now I can see the studs. What's best for covering the wall? I think it's too damp for drywall. I live in upstate NY, btw.

Thanks in advance for any/all advice.
 
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#2 ·
I don't know how much room you have next to the area in question. Any chance you could build a retaining wall back away from the garage so the dirt wasn't against the wall?
Building a masonary wall will require you to dig back a considerable way to pour a foundation for the block. You'll need to attach rebar to the old foundation to connect it to the new foundation. I see you digging out three foot back so you can get in the trench to drill the holes for the rebar.
If you build the retaining wall back three feet or so you eliminate all the subterrainian stuff.
Ron
 
#3 ·
Anyway I have removed most all of the dirt from this wall, and am going to remove the rotten siding and particle board, leaving the studs as they seem to look good. I would like to build a partial cinder block and mortar wall instead of just replacing the wood. So that from ground up there would be cinderblock and then around 4/5 ft or so the existing wood siding would resume.
that is good.U dont want the wall to rot easily again and anyway thats loads of work more bcs U ned to get someone to dig in a lot to place the base for it
 
#4 · (Edited)
With the garage floor being slab on grade construction, you would have to undermine the floor to get the appropriate footings established for the new wall. Not a good thing in even the best of circumstances. To further clarify, you would need a footing that was below the frost line and in accordance to your local regulations.

I agree with the others, the best course is to eliminate the source of material that is putting the wall below grade. The siding should last a lifetime if properly maintained and kept away from moisture.
 
#5 ·
Will you be putting the dirt back up against the wall? If so consider rebuilding the wall with pressure treated and waterproofed plywood. Put a good french drain down along the footing. Wood foundations using PT lumber are acceptable according to the IRC, so you would OK considering doing something like this. Lot easier and cheaper than block & concrete, which are not waterproof anyway. Don't put siding below the dirt level.
 
#6 ·
A retaining wall slightly away from the garage could be the best & most economical solution.

1. Lay one course of concrete block on the garage foundation where the rotted wall was. Anchor by drilling a few hole and grout in some anchor bolts for a new P.T. sill or bottom plate. The block will keep the wood off the floor and make cleaning the inside easier.

2. Replace the rotted studs as necessary.

3. You do not have to dig and pour footings for all retaining walls. If you use segmental retaing wall block for the wall, no footings are required and it is not necessary to go below the frost level. Start the wall about 2' away from the garage to leave room for a drainage path for water from the surrounding area and roof. For information on segmental retaining walls go to one of the sites for units available nationally and internationally. - Google for Allan Block, Anchor Wall Systems, Keystone or Versalok. You should be able to find one or more of those products near you.
 
#8 ·
Hifi said:
Will THAT be economical?

I've read a bunch of posts you have responded to and most are incoherent. This looks like an attempt at spam through the back door.
Ron
 
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