Help rebuilding porch please!
Me & my hubby are rebuilding our porch. We DO NOT have any experience but are determined to do this job as we DO NOT have the money for a pro.:(
The difficulties have been quite a few. Right now the porch roof is braced sufficiently (we hope), the columns and the decking have all been removed for it was all rotting. At this moment we are looking for advice on how to rebuild the framing as it was found to be also rotted.:cry:Now we have to replace the joists and frame ends. The existing joists are 2"X6"X20'. There appears to be no one in this area that carries this size. Plus we also want to replace the rotted wood with treated.
The full dimensions are 20'X6'. The support beams are 6' ,which there are two of. The joists run the whole length 20'. It is all built on a block foundation that seems to be OK.
Kinda stuck on how to rebuild without 20' joists.
Please give us some advice!:help:
Cathy & Tom
What is the max span that 2x6's are spanning? In other words what is the highest number between beams that hold them up?
You can break joists on beams as long as you roll block them. (a block in between the 2 joists) I would personally overlap them as well. Lets say the distance between beams is 8' I would buy 10' joists and overlap and nail them. Then roll block. You could also special order 20' 2x6. They do make them, just no one carries them.
I agree with Robert, just break the 20' span into 2 sections, run a double flush girder and then with hangers use 10's cut to correct dimensions to infill the field
Thank you all for the replies. I think we figured it out. But could you explain roll blocking a bit better? That might be what we decide to do.
Cathy; Robert calls it roll blocking, here we call it solid blocking. All it is,short pcs of the same joist material cut to fit snug between all the joists. In a field of 16" on center the blocking should be 14 1/2 to 14 5/8 long on avg.
The proper way to measure this is against the girder NOT in the middle of the span. You put the blocking in the middle of the span and by doing so will stiffen and straighten them and prevent twisting IE rolling.The secret is to offset the blocking by 1 1/2 each time so you can nail them easier. Just snap a center line and stagger left and right.
Robert did I miss anything? Besides that LOL
continuing porch saga
Now we find, after all the old joists are out, the two support beams are not even tied to anything! :bangin:
I do like the idea of roll/solid blocking but we need to fix these support beams to the house, don't we?
We had a suggestion from someone to place the beams on cement footers, like the kind for decking. Does this sound sturdy enough?
The ground underneath is a mix of soil, crushed stone, and clay. Would the footers need to placed on cement? Or maybe stone would work?
Get back to me soon, PLEASE! :wacko:
Thanks again for all your help, we're getting there. Hopefully before Halloween! Or else the Trick-or-Treaters will fall through! :devil: :batman:
Cathy: Sorry to say this but at this point it is time to get a contractor in there. You need footings, they must be below frostline; normally at least 42" deep, proper supports, framing etc. This is now beyond the point of a simple DIY project. Permits are now in order, inspections etc. Attaching ledger board to your foundation is not something to poke and hope about either. :(
You might not believe me now but it will be cheaper,faster, SAFER, to just step back and let the pros do it.
don't worry (too much)!
We have had a lot of advice from builder friends who believe the foundation is fine.They did an inspection.
Believe it or not we live in a small town that does not require permits. I know, in this day and age it's very rare,but it's true. :yes:
I think we are going to have enough help to get this done correctly. I'll keep you posted on how things are going.
We're keeping, keeping on! :lol:
Thanks so much for all your help,
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