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Old 04-27-2012, 10:04 AM   #16
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Help... my garage is bowing out


Is much more clear with this description. All your load is on the front and back walls. The side walls just stand there and since the top of the wall was not connected to anything it moves around. All they had to do was run a couple of 2x4 between the top of the wall and some of the other trusses and it would not have moved. All that is preventing it from moving in and out are the posts and if they do not go deep enough or their are soil issues they will move.

With a truss directly above these walls I would suspect you could almost remove them and rebuild them in a worst case.

I would try the easy method. Take a long board and put it on a diagonal between the ground on the outside and the upper part of the wall. See if you can move it at all. You may get lucky and be able to force it back into place. Or as other have stated use a comealong (its a device that pulls using steel cable costs less $50).

Do not even attempt to mess with the back wall. You would need jack up the trusses and then move the wall. Keep a eye on this wall if it gets worse you run a large risk of the building collapsing.

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Last edited by bill01; 04-27-2012 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 04-27-2012, 11:32 AM   #17
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Help... my garage is bowing out


Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfye86 View Post
My thoughts are to bolt a cable from the posts on 1 side to the other and get some sort of crank to pull 1 side into the other.
As jiju1943 said these are called come-a-longs and look like this
Help... my garage is bowing out-220px-comealong.jpg (Wikipedia image)
Be careful you will be inside the garage when operating. Probably not OSHA approved.
Before you start tugging on things you need to fix the problem with the bottom of the posts being displaced. Otherwise, when you start tensioning the walls the base will kick out more. Pound the base of the poles back into place and bridge a 2 x 8 across the pole and secure to the foundation.
Also, your pulling on two walls that are out of plumb. Eventually, one wall will be in-line and it will have to be braced while you continue to pull on it to get the second wall in line. That will require a lot of temporary bracing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfye86 View Post
Then maybe I can scab the outside beam to the roof beams with 2X4's.
I assume you mean trusses. You have truss construction, so no roof beam. jorg gave instruction on connecting to the trusses.
I would also add rod and turnbuckles to tie the two walls together. This might not work becasue the 2 x that make up the posts are sandwiched in the wrong direction and the rods will eventually pull through the pole. Unfortunately, you can't add turnbuckles at the bottom as well. They have a tendency to trip the cars.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jayfye86 View Post
Am I out of my mind? Is there any better options out there.
I won't say the obvious, but
1) Since these are not load bearing walls, I would remove the two side walls and build a proper 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 framed wall anchor across the entire length. There are just to many things wrong with the non-standard wall you have now. Probably cheaper in the long run.
2) Check to make sure slab and footings are up to code for your area. I just have a gut feeling that who ever built this did not follow codes. In Pittsburgh that slab could start moving around after a few freeze thaw cycles.
3) I was thinking this was not to difficult, because you were talking about non load bearing walls, until I noticed this.
Help... my garage is bowing out-farsidegarage.jpg
It appears to be the back corner and the same style walls are used for the back walls. The trusses rest on the back wall, therefore it is load bearing. This style wall should not be used for load bearing walls. One failure could cause a cascade effect and the whole structure comes down. We have a local builder who says he builds garages so if somebody drives through the back wall, the building will stay up.

I would love to hear the history behind this building. Non-standard walls and roof trusses. Trussses usually means an engineer is involved, unless you're in a state that allows certain preapproved trusses to be installed with out an engineer.

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Last edited by goosebarry; 04-27-2012 at 11:35 AM.
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