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Old 06-04-2013, 07:35 PM   #16
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Help with my floor framing


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Originally Posted by Pittsville View Post
Last two advice/questions than I'm done for the night...
you can ask more if needed tonight, or come back tomorrow ....

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Old 06-04-2013, 07:46 PM   #17
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Last two advice/questions than I'm done for the night...

Would there be any structural issue with adding two layers of 1/2" plywood to the girder to pack it out to 5.5"? (So it sits nicely over a 6x6 post.)

At the ends of the girder I was thinking of using a top flange simpson hanger to hang the beam off of the sills. (Still using the piers for center support of course) Would it be better to do this or would it make more sense to install piers closer to the ends and let the last couple inches of girder cantilever out? In other words, should the extreme ends of the girder be fastened or can they "hang free"?
I'm not an engineer.... but I can't believe that packing that girder out is nothing but good. As a field rough rule of thumb, I've had an engineer say that laminating with with plywood (and dimensional) is roughly 80% deflection characteristics ofsolid lumber.

This assumes that it is well laminated, nailed, clinched, and PL'd or LiqNailed between plies.

This is WAG... but I can't believe it is not structurally sounder to Simpson those girders rather than cantelever them. Theoretically there is some uplift if you post, but I think the previous poster was just thinking of increasing / actually decreasing the hanging weight to the Simson.

CAVEAT, I'M NOTAN ENGINEER

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Old 06-04-2013, 08:13 PM   #18
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if you are flush framing and the joists and girders are framed from the same size members then wouldn't the girder sit on top of the sill plates? I'm guessing you have a foundation wall around the perimeter of the building.
I have a 7x8.5 sill beam that rests on the foundation wall. The joists will hang off of the sill beam on Simpson LB210 top flange hangers. I was thinking of using a similar top flange style hanger to hold the ends of the girder. If I have 3 or 4 piers helping to support the girder, I would think that using a hanger at the sills would be ok.

Btw... I'll draw all of this up in 3d tonight and post it tomorrow.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:30 PM   #19
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I've had an engineer say that laminating with with plywood (and dimensional) is roughly 80% deflection characteristics ofsolid lumber.
a professional engineer can say that because they stamp and certify it, from a prescriptive standpoint there are no prescriptive tables to back it up. if you do not have prescriptive tables or an engineer's stamp then you have to ignore it.

I always look at it this way, if my multiply beam carries the load then they plywood filler doesn't have to do much work, just pad out my beam so the column caps fit nice and snug.
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:33 PM   #20
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Btw... I'll draw all of this up in 3d tonight and post it tomorrow.
excellent, look forward to seeing it!
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Old 06-04-2013, 08:58 PM   #21
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Thanks for all of the great replies!
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:03 PM   #22
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anytime
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:22 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by GBrackins View Post
a professional engineer can say that because they stamp and certify it, from a prescriptive standpoint there are no prescriptive tables to back it up. if you do not have prescriptive tables or an engineer's stamp then you have to ignore it.

I always look at it this way, if my multiply beam carries the load then they plywood filler doesn't have to do much work, just pad out my beam so the column caps fit nice and snug.
Agree entirely, and we both agree there is no downside to shimming/ laminating/ packing out,.

Best
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Old 06-04-2013, 09:59 PM   #24
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nope, none at all, well unless your plywood is exposed to water ....... I usually specify some Grace Vycor over the top of the laminated beam.

I like your signature, so very true
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Old 06-04-2013, 10:29 PM   #25
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nope, none at all, well unless your plywood is exposed to water ....... I usually specify some Grace Vycor over the top of the laminated beam.

I like your signature, so very true
And Gary... that's a nice fine point....I assume that Vycor is ice water shield..or .. house wrap.? (I'll pay attention to the label next time.)

As to your signiture, you use the word "sometimes", which I don't contest... but your signiture has honestly interested me before, and on the other side of the coin... I'm not convinced that quality is directly related to cost... for instance, your own advice is excellent... and I don't recall sending you anything... sometimes I have found my most expensive subs have been well below par.

Best Regards

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Old 06-04-2013, 10:32 PM   #26
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yes Vycor is a peal & stick product similar to their Ice and Water.
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:28 PM   #27
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Trying to get back to this. Should have some time this weekend to post the drawing of the proposed floor framing. Been a busy week...
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:59 PM   #28
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In regards to your plywood....I would suggest 1 1/8" T&G. That is what I used upstairs....substantially better than the 3/4" I put downstairs. If you think your going to use tile, this would go a long ways to giving you a stable floor in addition to the other suggestions.
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:24 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ddawg16
In regards to your plywood....I would suggest 1 1/8" T&G. That is what I used upstairs....substantially better than the 3/4" I put downstairs. If you think your going to use tile, this would go a long ways to giving you a stable floor in addition to the other suggestions.
Great advice. I was planning on using 1 1/8" Advantech. Using this thickness allows me up to 3/4" for my finished floor while still matching the elevation of existing floors.
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Old 06-09-2013, 09:52 PM   #30
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Levels is correct. Assign each different size a different level. This groups all of the joists with the same level number together. If you change one size within the level it changes all of the others with the same level number.

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