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Old 10-12-2008, 01:23 AM   #31
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Ahh clever idea there with the socket...thank you.

Before I put in all the 2x4's, I was having trouble nailing the plywood to the underside of the subfloor on the right side there in the pics because the floor joists are only about 2" apart. I gave up on the nailing and screwed in some drywall screws by hand by jamming a screwdriver in a large socket and attaching a long extension. I'm surprised I didn't think of doing the same thing for the nails.

But wouldn't that only work in a situation where you need to get deep in between two things? I was having trouble getting up in between the floor joists and then nailing horizontally. I suppose the lever method might work though. It sure would help if you could drill a small pilot hole...but then if you had room to get a drill in there you would have enough room to just hammer it in.
I just looked at your pictures by the way. Those joists are close enough that you could stagger the braces and drive nails through the joists to the supporting beams.

If you measure the smallest gap and make a board that thick and run it for a few feet and drive nails into it along the whole length that would support your king studs.

Then in the larger opening put in a laminated board that you make form whatever you need to get the width. Like 2 2x10's, or 2 2x10's with some OSB sandwiched in between. Use lot of nails.

Then pound that into the space and nail it from the backside of the joist. Drive some toenails into it from the other side.

This should do the job.

I didn't realize that they were so close together.

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Old 10-12-2008, 02:04 AM   #32
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I just looked at your pictures by the way. Those joists are close enough that you could stagger the braces and drive nails through the joists to the supporting beams.

If you measure the smallest gap and make a board that thick and run it for a few feet and drive nails into it along the whole length that would support your king studs.

Then in the larger opening put in a laminated board that you make form whatever you need to get the width. Like 2 2x10's, or 2 2x10's with some OSB sandwiched in between. Use lot of nails.

Then pound that into the space and nail it from the backside of the joist. Drive some toenails into it from the other side.

I'm slightly confused as to what you mean by the staggering.

And on the small opening on the right side, do you mean to just cut a 2x4 a few feet long and to the proper width/angle and nail it into the top of the opening, to the underside of the sub-floor? And that is all that is needed for that side?

I think I know what you mean with the left, larger side. I could end nail it and toe nail it from the far left side, but only toe nail it on the right side. The only problem is, however, is the angle of the middle floor joist. It is twisted at a 10 angle so the width at the top of the opening on the left side is about 3.5" but the bottom of the opening is 5". I don't have any tools that would let me cut an angle in a 2x10 lengthwise like that unless I did it by hand.
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Old 10-12-2008, 09:23 AM   #33
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I'm slightly confused as to what you mean by the staggering.

And on the small opening on the right side, do you mean to just cut a 2x4 a few feet long and to the proper width/angle and nail it into the top of the opening, to the underside of the sub-floor? And that is all that is needed for that side?

I think I know what you mean with the left, larger side. I could end nail it and toe nail it from the far left side, but only toe nail it on the right side. The only problem is, however, is the angle of the middle floor joist. It is twisted at a 10 angle so the width at the top of the opening on the left side is about 3.5" but the bottom of the opening is 5". I don't have any tools that would let me cut an angle in a 2x10 lengthwise like that unless I did it by hand.
Well if you did the larger side and got that beefed up so that it would be a solid joist and then did a double plate in the top where your weight would be I think your weight distribution would be fine.

You have more than enough beef with the joists that close together.

Span tables are based on distance and spread. In come cases you can have 2x8's span more than 2x10's if the 2x8's are 12 inch centers and the 2x10's are 24 inch centers.

With those joists so close together and a double plate on top to distribute the weight over the joists to keep from putting weight on one or two joists I think you would be fine.

At least from where I sit.
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Old 10-12-2008, 11:33 AM   #34
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Well if you did the larger side and got that beefed up so that it would be a solid joist and then did a double plate in the top where your weight would be I think your weight distribution would be fine.

You have more than enough beef with the joists that close together.

Span tables are based on distance and spread. In come cases you can have 2x8's span more than 2x10's if the 2x8's are 12 inch centers and the 2x10's are 24 inch centers.

With those joists so close together and a double plate on top to distribute the weight over the joists to keep from putting weight on one or two joists I think you would be fine.
Yes, a double top plate would definitely be a good idea.

But I think I've got the blocking pretty solid as is, and surprisingly, it was a LOT of work getting all that in there (a ton of trial-and-error cutting of all the angles and lengths), so I'd prefer to leave it in there if it will be sufficient.

Thanks Marvin
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Old 10-12-2008, 01:07 PM   #35
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Yes, a double top plate would definitely be a good idea.

But I think I've got the blocking pretty solid as is, and surprisingly, it was a LOT of work getting all that in there (a ton of trial-and-error cutting of all the angles and lengths), so I'd prefer to leave it in there if it will be sufficient.

Thanks Marvin
Sounds like you are good to go with the rest of the project.
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Old 10-12-2008, 06:32 PM   #36
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Sounds like you are good to go with the rest of the project.
I hope so. I'll let you know if anything else comes up.

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