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Old 08-02-2007, 06:59 AM   #16
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ok, things changed a bit and I need to go with 1 large window vs. two smaller. The rough openeing will be about 5' now.

That being said, should I now use a 2x12 vs. 2x10? I think the answer is yes, but wanted to ask!

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Old 08-02-2007, 09:58 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutchcargo View Post
You should be able to get away with a 4x6 header for openings upto 4'.
4x8 up to 5', 4x10 up to 6'.
I think he answered that
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Old 08-02-2007, 10:11 AM   #18
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It really depends on who you ask. For header sizing, I get answers all over the place. The building inspectors generally tell me to fill the space. My lumberyard said a 4x10 would be all that's needed for a 1st floor/2 story 8' RO.
Call the building office and ask them; they have the final say.
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Old 08-02-2007, 10:18 AM   #19
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I (personally) will not go any less then a 4x10. I had an addition done 2 year's ago and for ALL RO's my builder used 4x12's, I think that is overkill though.

I will make a call and have them be the final say.
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Old 08-02-2007, 02:20 PM   #20
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You really need to determine some basic things first. Are the floor joists perpendicular to the wall or parallel? What is the floor joist span? What are your snow loads? What kind of roof do you have? Most lumber yards have an engineer that can tell you the correct size if you have the needed info.
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:34 AM   #21
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I am going to go 4x12 just to make sure. Not an issue and I will fell safer then trying to undersize it for 2".

I wanted to add some temp support's to this while I am working. However, the joist's run parrallel to this wall. How do I support this du to the same run direction?
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Old 08-07-2007, 08:43 AM   #22
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Joists running parallel is a good thing. That means your wall is not supporting the first floor weight. It could be that it is also not supporting the 2nd floor and, if you have a gable end on that wall it might not be supporting any roof load. That's why it's important to first understand what that wall is supporting. It could be only the wall weight, or it could be a lot more.

With joists running parallel you could possibly put the header in the rim joist area and have a full height window to the ceiling
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Old 08-07-2007, 10:41 AM   #23
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Here is a photo.

The window will be going into the lower floor, side wall, toward the back of the house from the chimney.

Joist's run front to back (parrallel to the side wall) of the house.

Hope this works!

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...56447465fHnpwj
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Old 08-07-2007, 11:13 AM   #24
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If I understand the location it appears that the only load you have is the wall. No significant floor load or roof load. You don't need much for a header and if you want the window all the way up to the ceiling you could do that.

But I am not an Engineer so you really need to ask one. Take this photo, some dimensions, etc. Check to see if you have access to your rim joist above the window area and measure it. Walk into a local lumberyard ( a real one - not HD, Lowes etc) that services your local builders and ask them to help you size a header to add a window. They will have you talk to one of their engineers and he will tell you what size header you need. Buy it from them. Even buy the window from them. If the guy at the counter says oh a 2xwhatever will work and doesn't have you talk to an engineer then smile and nod and head for the next lumberyard until you get an engineer. Most lumberyards don't charge for this. It's part of their overhead included in the price of their lumber.

I'm betting the most you'll need is to double your rim joist above the window opening but get a real engineer to tell you.
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Old 08-13-2007, 07:22 AM   #25
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Another successful mission!

I went with a 4x10. The wall was non load bearing (just the wall) and all worked out perfect! Thank's guy's.

Once I opened it up, I did have some electrical junctions to make and an HVAC line to move, but all in all it was a nice addition to the space.
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Old 08-24-2007, 07:09 AM   #26
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Here is the final product! Thanks for everyone's help.

Before:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...56447465yTmgmp

During:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...56447465GeCRgd

After:
http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/...56447465MWHIjP
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:37 AM   #27
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Just curious, why did you go with that style window?
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Old 08-24-2007, 09:43 AM   #28
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On that side of the house my neighbor's house is about 15' away, and my fence (property line) is 7'. So, there is really nothing to look at. Right under that is my two AC unit's, so did not want to be too close to them. Since we really only needed it/wanted it for light, we wanted the most narrow window we could find to get it up as high as we could.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:00 AM   #29
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That's what I thought, I have the same situation in my house.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:06 AM   #30
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We have two smaller one's in an addition on the same wall, they were done for the same reason.

I was actually going to go with 2 smaller unit's but the AC line set run's down the house about 1ft from the right corner of that window, so we went with 1 bigger unit.

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