Has anyone used Green Fiber blown in insulation?
I am planning on insulating my attic. It currently has fiberglass batt insulation. I noticed Home Depot and Lowes both sell this and have free hopper rentals. I have a two story house, so the hose would have to run maybe 100 ft plus into the attic. Will the hopper they let you use be strong enough to send the insulation that far? I read somewhere that I need to add R30 insulation over my existing insulation for my area. Are there any good sites I should visit to learn more about insulation? I need to know how much and how thick the insulation should be. I plan on installing cardboard baffles to keep insulation out of the soffits and to not restrict attic ventilation.
The last question is:
Is this a good money saving DIY project? When I ask this, I'm referring to whether it is worth the time and effort to do it myself as opposed to hiring it out. I haven't even checked the price of having a contractor blow it in for me. I know some jobs are worth the expense of having a professional do it (i.e. roofing).
I have heard a lot of good things about this type of insulation but don't actually have any personal experience with it. However, I thought it was a great question so just did a quick Google search and came up with this article: http://www.ehow.com/how_5197129_inst...tic-walls.html . I hope that helps and good luck!!! :)
I used the product from Lowes back in the fall. I purchased 20 bags because that was the min purchase to get the free use of the blower. The hose length they provide is more than enough. If your hose was like mine I would suggest taping the seems of the hose to ensure that it doesn't break and blow insulation everywhere, it happened to me in a bedroom. I contacted a local company to come out and make it atleast a R30 which with that product is only about 8-10", the cost to do that from them was 375, I only had about $210 and 4 hours invested in my attic. My foot print of my home is only 28 x 16 and I couldn't really tell you how much that equated to in sq ft that needed to be filled in the attic. The 20 bags was more than enough for my attic, giving me an average of 15".
Just search this weeks postings its a hot topic. The net of my renos so far is a second energy audit stating I have improved my energy consumption scenario by 37% :eek:with a greenhouse gas reduction of 3.5 tonnes per year.
To achieve this I have insulated and sealed and insulated my rim joist to R32 and attic to R50, added weighted damper vents for stove exhaust and drier, upgraded furnace to HE and sealed under 70 % of my
baseboards. I have yet to insulate my basement, but my house now surpasses new home code for air loss factor. Since the new furnace was done, gas bill has dropped by over 30% consumption over the same periods prior on similar heating degree days ... meaning similar hot and cold time frames.
I can't say how much the attic alone is saving but the comfort level is far better. The last 2 projects last fall were the rim joist and attic so they have yet to be calculated into my actual year over year gas savings but the house is significantly more stable temperature wise.
1. Know your building code re vapor barrier and approved materials etc
2. Bags will be labeled with R value caculator per ft@ 96% efficient
3.Use the attic baffles and inspect attic for proper rooftop and soffit ventilation as well.
4. Ask if there are any rebates available requiring before and after audits or photos.
5.Seal visible leaks at pipes and wiring in advance
6. wear a bump cap , an N95 or better mask and drink lots of water
7. Watch your step.
Because my attic is a 4-12 pitch with maximum 5' roof height I had to be on my knees and stomach. I took a foam sled up to lay on and a 10' long pipe to reach out and help level the corners. A lightweight rake is good.
Corning pink has a new machine with an on off switch on the hose. I would look for that feature for sure. My final step was to build a bale to attach to the attic door.
I live east of Detroit so my temp swings +100 to -30 degrees through the year with lots of humidity. Did my attic with 35 bales , approx 800 ft to R50 blown. VERY satisfying project:thumbsup:
Total project took 2 people, approx 5 hours and cost under $300. HUGE improvement on colder 2nd story. Improving my ventilation was key as well,. Now looking forward to cooler summer nights as well as the trapped heat used to radiate down.
Go to this site www.buildinscience.com
When you sealed under your baseboards, what was your process?? How big is the footprint of your home?? 35 bags is ALOT of material! What was your process of insulating your attic hatch?? Mine is just a board that I have to push up into the attic space, can I just screw a 2" block of foam to that location? I do not plan on entering that area, but atleast by screwing it up there it can be taken down at a later time. Thank you in advance.
House is 1700 ft with approximately 750-800 L shaped second storey. I have yet to insulate the lower level half attic over lower level family room extension and R 50 is recommended here.
Re the baseboards, I used latex for easy cleanup and was reflooring the living room and dining room and replacing baseboards so I sprayed with a foam can and staw tip under the drywall against my lower wall, plate, before adding the new flooring. Upstairs I pealed back the carpet, foamed and retucked the carpet with a wide drywall trowel. These ares are far less drafty.
Then I got serious about the foam an bought a foam cartridge gun with a dial. It is extremely accurate and conserves half cans for later use. Keep in mind I had my basement rim joist and attic to do as well so the gun was great
I considered rigid foam on the hatch but wanted to hit R50, which would be close to 8" or more. I will still consider foam when I modify the hatch since foam is lightweight.
I too have (for now) only a 24" x28" access to attic through the hatch. I built a movable foxhole type crib around the hatch opening with extra t of R22 Roxul rock wool to hold back the blown insulation which is now about 16" deep. Then I cut 2 and stacked pieces of 24" x 28 " R22 and tucked them stacked into a jumbo garbage bag which slides easily out of the way when I open the foam backed hatch. I did not make that piece permanent as I will be upgrading the hatch with a scrap section from an exterior door and frame I am replacing in the spring.
Is it that you do this type of work for a living or are you just a fanatic about conserving energy?? Your processes are great.
Actually I built a house with my dad when I was 14 so I'm just at ease with it. I have a mechanical background and have run a lot of central vac pipe over the last 20 years in finished and new homes under construction so I know the ins and outs and there is no shortage of tools...and I try to be thorough.
But I love the satisfaction of a DIY job well done. I didn't set out to save the OZONE so much as my $$$$ in my project but the green benefit is a HUGE plus as well. I am at the stage now where my rebates and energy savings will equate to a break even on my new HE furnace by the end of year 2.
Next project is a POWER PIPE - Drain Water Heat recovery unit and insulating the basement which will bring enough bonus rebate money to break even before any additional heat/gas savings. So its a BIG win win. I no longer see $ going up the chimney or through the window
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:50 PM.|
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2016 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.