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Old 10-29-2012, 11:15 AM   #16
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by jfharper View Post
OK...great. So in my original question, I was curious about the length of the nail. I received 2 different answers, one 1 3/4" and the other 2 1/2"...which confuses me a bit. Perhaps, if I understand the reasoning I could take my situation and make a judgement call.

I understand expansion and contraction over time will push a nail out which I assume varies according to outside temp ranges. My outside termp range from 110 F max to 17 F max. Mostly the range is 95F-30F, those other temps were extremes. So would a longer nail help hold longer because of the extra friction overcoming push out? Does smooth shank or ring shank matter in this case?

the nail needs to penetrate the framing so the longer the better, 2 1/2" is an average size "one for all" siding nail for most applications

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Old 10-29-2012, 11:33 AM   #17
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by kwikfishron View Post
I gave you the link to the install guide in my first post...it's all in there.
Thanks...I know, I read that...but I'd still like to understand the reasoning behind the recommendation.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:50 PM   #18
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Using a 1" nail would be a big mistake. The panels would be able to just be pulled right off.

Buy one of these and you would be a whole lot happyer.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Bostit.../dp/B0006FKI5G

And yes you should be nailing into the studs.

I tryed using a roofing nailer and hated it.

I use my siding nailer for lots of other jobs it not just for siding.
Joe,
I'm leaning towards your suggestion. Could you tell me what length nail you use? Since my T111 is 5/8" and the hardi would be 5/16", that would be 15/16" just for the matieral, so I'm thinking of 2 1/2 nail would be good...would the bostich nail that is a thickcoat galvanized be OK? The SS are so expensive.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:33 PM   #19
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Got one more question, since I'm installing over existing t111, should I first remove some of the nails holding the t111? That way I have less a chance of hitting a nail when installing the siding. How is this done when sheathing is applied first...do they use a limited number of nails to hold the sheathing on? Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:09 PM   #20
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by jfharper View Post
Got one more question, since I'm installing over existing t111, should I first remove some of the nails holding the t111? That way I have less a chance of hitting a nail when installing the siding. How is this done when sheathing is applied first...do they use a limited number of nails to hold the sheathing on? Thanks.

if anything you want to add nails to the sheathing to tighten it up, it has probably worked loose some over the years while hanging on the wall. test it with the hammer to determine how tight it is to the wall and use the 2 1/2" sheathing/siding nails to nail it up if loose. After you have nailed at all of the studs in the wall if needed, line the little red dots on the tyvek up with the studs when you put the tyvek up and this helps to find the studs when putting your siding up

do not worry to much about hitting the nails in the sheathing, as the nail patterns of the siding when compared to the sheathing would be different

Last edited by hand drive; 10-29-2012 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:19 PM   #21
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


To each their own I guess but I can see no reason why you would need a 2 ” nail to hang 5/16” of anything to a wall. I guess we should be using 2 ”+ fasteners to hang sheetrock then.

Hardie specs say, either a 2” siding nail or a “1 ” roofing nail. Why would they spec an "1 ” nail if they thought the siding would fall off the wall???

Using a 2 ” nail as your “go to, the longer the better fastener” will at some point get you into trouble, especially on older homes with 2x4 exterior walls. If you do this for a living at some point you “will” end up hitting some plumbing or electrical.

Nothing like hearing the hiss of water spraying in the wall to take the wind out of what was a good productive day. Not to mention hitting electrical where the problem may not show up for days, months or even years down the road. Ask me how I know this.

Nail a coarse of Hardie (not to be confused with harti) with siding nails… you can easily pull the siding off the wall, the siding will pop through those small siding nail heads effortlessly. At least the roofing nail has a little more head surface to help keep that wet noodle on the wall.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:41 PM   #22
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by jfharper
Thanks...I know, I read that...but I'd still like to understand the reasoning behind the recommendation.
Is it going to matter? You're going to follow the installation guide....right?
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Old 10-29-2012, 11:34 PM   #23
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Is it going to matter? You're going to follow the installation guide....right?
I might add to it...seems like manufactures change there minds often...so if I understand the physics of it, I can make a modification if needed.
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Old 10-30-2012, 12:48 PM   #24
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


My own rule for fastening most types of siding is to penetrate at LEAST 1" into the studs with the fastener. So if you have 15/16" to go through, I would use a 2" nail or longer and try to find the studs. Also, being that it is outside I agree that stainless steel fasteners should be used. JMHO,
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Old 10-31-2012, 01:06 PM   #25
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Alright, I'm going to go with a 2 3/16" siding nail using that bostich siding nailer...thanks for all the help. How far in do I sink them, snug or flush...here is an image I drew up:



I was wondering about the painting question I asked above...here it is again.

Should I roll beforehand…would this be before cutting or after, and do you roll all sides or just the exposed sides?

Also, I read that some guys put a primer coat on first even though there is a primer from the factory…they say the factory primer is not that good and they’ve had paint not stick that well thus the reason for the second primer…should I add a primer?

Also, if roll beforehand, after install, do you brush the edges (next to trim) then roll a second final coat?

Last edited by jfharper; 10-31-2012 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 04-08-2014, 04:04 PM   #26
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Have you consulted both the Hardi warranty info and your local building code? Without following the guides specifically, you will void the warranty coverage. Generally we use 2" nails because of wind issues.

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