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Old 10-27-2012, 09:55 PM   #1
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


I've read ppl use a roofing nailer to install hardiplank using 2" nails, but I've run into some questions:
1. I went to buy a nailer at the local home depot/lowes, and all they carry are roofing nailers that go up to 1 3/4"...would this be OK?
2. I will be blind nailing into/over existing T1-11...the longest roofing nail (coil for nailer) HD carries is 1 1/2"...since the hardi is 1/4" and my T1-11 is 5/8", do I really need anything longer than 1"? Unless I should be looking for the studs for better anchoring.
3. Also, HD only carries electrogalvanized nails (for the nailer) and hardi says that is OK but may corrode early...I live in central california near the coast, but not right next to it...I'm about 40 minutes inland from the coast so I won't get the marine layer and moisture that the coast gets. Do you think EG nails will be OK, or should I search somewhere else for hot dipped?

Can someone please instruct me as I am new to this.

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Last edited by jfharper; 10-27-2012 at 10:05 PM.
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Old 10-27-2012, 10:05 PM   #2
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Using a 1" nail would be a big mistake. The panels would be able to just be pulled right off.

Buy one of these and you would be a whole lot happyer.
http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Bostit.../dp/B0006FKI5G

And yes you should be nailing into the studs.

I tryed using a roofing nailer and hated it.

I use my siding nailer for lots of other jobs it not just for siding.

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Old 10-27-2012, 11:16 PM   #3
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Thanks. What nail would you recommend, electro or hot dipped gal?
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Old 10-27-2012, 11:33 PM   #4
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by jfharper View Post
Thanks. What nail would you recommend, electro or hot dipped gal?
1 11 gauge ring shank "stainless steel" roofing nail is what Id recommend for blind nailing Hardie.

The siding nails dont have a large enough head imo. Save the siding nails for any exposed nailing.

This is the Hardie zone hz5 install guide, give it a read.
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:46 AM   #5
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


why arent you stripping the old siding and installing a proper rain screen detail.. not doing so will void the harti warrenty. and by doing so you can nail to the furring strips.

ive sided over a dozen homes with harti using a siding nailer with absolutely no issue with hte siding afterwords. where your on the coast definitely invest in stainless steel they last 20x longer than galvys. im on the opposite coast and have seen countless homes that guys have used the wrong materials for the environment and it caused issues.. if the nails dont corrode right away the salt water can cause them to rust and you may have nails that bleed leaving rust streaks down the siding
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Old 10-28-2012, 09:47 AM   #6
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


I recommend an exterior 2 1/2" nail gun nail that fits a framing nail gun. the nail head is bigger than siding nail gun heads too but not as big as a roofing nail head. As Woodworkbykirk mentions, I've installed miles of hardie with siding nail guns and never a problem but for the diyer, I recommend the framing nail gun because of the versatility with it after the siding project is over- need a deck built? etc...

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Old 10-28-2012, 10:02 AM   #7
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Since I already owned several framing nailers and 2, roofing nail guns I tryed them first.
Not sure why but the framing nails would bend or the gun would just jam up time and time agin with the nail stuck in the gun and the gun stuck to the wall.
I tryed differant gun, differant pressures.
The roofing nailer would only dive them in about 1/2 way and shattered some of the pieces.
The siding nailer drove them almost flush and never once bent a nail or jamed up, It also can be used on the top pieces to face nail.
The nails are never going to back out, there near impossible to pull back out.
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:08 AM   #8
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


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Originally Posted by woodworkbykirk View Post
why arent you stripping the old siding and installing a proper rain screen detail.. not doing so will void the harti warrenty.
Why would you strip T111 if it was in sound shape?

Where does it say "no rain, screen no warranty"?
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Old 10-28-2012, 10:15 AM   #9
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


What's the differance if you side over OSB or CDX plywood or T111?
Wrap with house wrap and side it.
Nialing directly over the studs with no sheathing of some kind would leave air gaps everywhere, and give the siding no support behind it.
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Old 10-28-2012, 03:24 PM   #10
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


for the entire east coast.. if your in a wet environment you have to have a rain screen if you want the siding to last and for the house to not rot out.

in a 10 year time frame of working with hardi product, the only issue weve ever had was getting the color match caulking at the same time as the siding for caulking around windows. on one house we used the most popular color , we had to wait 8 months after the siding was on to get our color match. luckily we back caulk the siding where it meets trim with clear. the reps have seen our installs and say we go above and beyond their very strict install procedure for the zone.. i worked for another guy hanging it on a house and he wanted to cut corners left right and center, had to tell him dont even think about sending me to fix things when the callback happens.. its your method so its your problem

as for rainscreen , one of our competitors underbid us on a job last year for my neighbor,, they didnt do a rain screen, didnt properly flash things. sure enough the deficiency list was a mile long and they were told not to come back. i finished the job and had to mend things as best possible without stripping the entire house.
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:09 PM   #11
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


Yes, I will be adding a new moist seal (tyvek) and the T-111 has the old organic tar paper seal under it, but I didn't know how it was since the house was built in the 80s. I thought adding tyvek would be a good call and some friends recommend that. The t-111 is in sound shape and will serve as a good sheathing.

I will also be using Quad chalking as I heard that is the way to go.

Regarding painting, a friend mentioned rolling it first before install. Question, so I prime it with a good primer, then roll it, then install, then brush edges and finish roll? Also should I primer and paint all sides before install if that is the way to go or just the surfaces that will be exposed?

Another questions is on nail depth, should it be flush to the hardiplank, which means it would dent the surface just enough for the head top to be flush? And how do you get this accuracy, do you adjust your compressor output to a max top pressure then finish with the dial on the gun? What happens when the pressure drops on the compressor, with the nail change it's depth? What compressor setting do you work with for this type of application, or does it depend on my wood...how think/old/hard it is etc. that will make me to adjust when I start and as I go?

Thanks for all your replies

Last edited by jfharper; 10-28-2012 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 12:04 AM   #12
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


the backside of the nail should rest against the siding and not puncture the face of the siding, the thickness of the nail head will be like a relief off of the siding. A compressor that is 120 psi capable works well for regulating pressure on a framing gun. Leave the compressor pressure turned up and adjust the nose piece on the nail gun for more accuracy. some nail guns have rubber bumper nose pieces that attach onto the nose of the gun.
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Old 10-29-2012, 02:31 AM   #13
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


What's the differance if you side over OSB or CDX plywood or T111?
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:14 AM   #14
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


OK...great. So in my original question, I was curious about the length of the nail. I received 2 different answers, one 1 3/4" and the other 2 1/2"...which confuses me a bit. Perhaps, if I understand the reasoning I could take my situation and make a judgement call.

I understand expansion and contraction over time will push a nail out which I assume varies according to outside temp ranges. My outside termp range from 110 F max to 17 F max. Mostly the range is 95F-30F, those other temps were extremes. So would a longer nail help hold longer because of the extra friction overcoming push out? Does smooth shank or ring shank matter in this case?
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Old 10-29-2012, 10:43 AM   #15
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Hardiplank and Roofing Nailer questions?


I gave you the link to the install guide in my first post...it's all in there.

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