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Old 11-17-2010, 10:34 AM   #1
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Is there an advantage of overlap hardiplank versus the 4X8 sections? I am consdiering replacing the existing fiber board exterior panels on my garage, any input would be appreciated.
Thanks,

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Old 11-17-2010, 11:42 AM   #2
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Hey Tommy1,
I am Gregg with The Home Depot in Chicago. How tall is the garage? The plank siding has less of a chance of moisture getting behind it because each individual piece is lapped over each other, but it is more work to install. The 4’x8’ siding boards are a lot easier to install, but are designed to look like vertical siding. If the vertical, up and down plank look matches your home then that might be better, but the boards are ship-lapped tongue and grove, which doesn’t offer the best protection. Both are great products and are mold proof. I would go with what matches the house best and what can be installed the most fitting way with your garage.-Gregg

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Old 11-17-2010, 04:44 PM   #3
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You may need to install plywood or OSB at the corners if the fiberboard is also the sheathing to keep the structure from racking if using lap siding. Add to that the cost of wood for corner boards, door and window trim, a house wrap and possibly back-priming each board.

"The plank siding has less of a chance of moisture getting behind it because each individual piece is lapped over each other," ---- really?

The individual pieces have 80' of joints rather than 8' with each 4x8' piece, with 6” net boards, 52’ with 8” boards. This will allow wind-driven and thermally driven water to access behind the siding, never a good thing, fig.2: http://www.dickseibert.com/martin.pdf

Do you get paid for answers, right or wrong? I could make some serious money…… Are they accepting applications?

Is there room to add the sheathing/siding over the fiberboard?

Gary
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:07 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
You may need to install plywood or OSB at the corners if the fiberboard is also the sheathing to keep the structure from racking if using lap siding. Add to that the cost of wood for corner boards, door and window trim, a house wrap and possibly back-priming each board.

"The plank siding has less of a chance of moisture getting behind it because each individual piece is lapped over each other," ---- really?

The individual pieces have 80' of joints rather than 8' with each 4x8' piece, with 6” net boards, 52’ with 8” boards. This will allow wind-driven and thermally driven water to access behind the siding, never a good thing, fig.2: http://www.dickseibert.com/martin.pdf

Do you get paid for answers, right or wrong? I could make some serious money…… Are they accepting applications?

Is there room to add the sheathing/siding over the fiberboard?

Gary
Gary, Thanks. I have not considered applying the new siding over the existing fiberboard. I think there is enough room. I would need to replace the trim pieces but that should not be be difficult. Thanks for the idea. There is no sheathing, the garage is detattched except for a breezeway.
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:10 AM   #5
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Hey Gary,
Plank siding has been used for years, and has proven to be the best. I don't feel I am incorrect about that. In my experience 4'x8' sheets of siding usually fail after 5 years. The 4x8 pieces are more likely to warp or sag which will ruin the seams and allow moisture behind it. Sorry if I have offended you in some way. I like this site because everyone is really friendly and helpful.-Thanks-Gregg
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Old 11-18-2010, 03:08 PM   #6
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"Plank siding has been used for years, and has proven to be the best." ---- yes, when face nailed, not blind nailed that leaves the bottom of a 6-7" exposure board to flop in the wind.

I've installed T1-11 on houses around here that are still fine, as long as paint is renewed, over 35 years ago. Yet the cedar lap siding has weathered and failed, been replaced with vinyl or other (cheap looking after 5 years) material. Location has everything to do with it, wet areas need a rain screen system.

I didn't even touch on water shedding off lap siding, forming drips that blow back against the house (due to the house blocking the wind path) easily finding a way behind the siding through the overlap gaps (13 in a 8' high wall). You never caulk these gaps or will trap moisture behind there to rot the sheathing or framing. No gaps (no breaks in the water plane at all, top to bottom) with sheets of siding except vertical edges, which I caulk. The "less chance of moisture" is just plain false.

I hear on the forums a lot about "the guy at......." box store, not just your employer, "told me....." There are a few people working there that know their stuff but few and rare.

"The 4x8 pieces are more likely to warp or sag which will ruin the seams and allow moisture behind it." ---- How does a 4x8 sheet of siding on a wall sag?

No offense, just showing you some science. I don't use similes so it's hard to tell my facial expressions when answering, if I am kidding or not..... Nice you stopped the links to the store.

Gary
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Old 11-18-2010, 04:11 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by gotogregg View Post
Hey Gary,
Plank siding has been used for years, and has proven to be the best.
What kind of plank LP, Masonite, Hardi, even Cedar?

Thank God for Caulking and Paint.

I’ll put my money on properly installed Cedar Shingles as the best protection from the weather any day.

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