hello everyone, new guy here. I would like to thank you guys on a great forum. spent about 2 hours reading it tonight. I am in the process of redoing my brothers house (lots of rot). I replaced the sill plates, ripped of old sheathing and put new 3/4 plywood on. So, I just received 20 squares of hardie plank (5 inch reveal). I spent the day with priming the back of it with a high end SW primer. I know I have to prime all cuts before install and flash at butt joints. BUT I am a little confused on 2 things.
1-) instead of mounting the planks to the wood studs. can I use SS screws and mount it to the 3/4 plywood every 12 inchs??? I want to use screws to help reduce and waves and saving coin on my buying a siding gun.
2-) Alot of people mention to caulk butt joints. How do you caulk the butt joints when the primer is still wet???
DIYChatroom.com - Are you about to start a new home improvement task and need some help? Do you need advise on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that DIY Chatroom is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally free.
Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. DIYChatroom.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any home improvement task!
Maybe you should just go to their website and read their installation instructions. They have a lot of good information and you won't void the warranty. Never used screws and I don't know if that would work or is even recommended. Also, Hardie siding no longer recommends caulking the joints, just butting them up and putting flashing underneath each joint. It's best to always refer to the manufacturer for advice about how their products are to be installed.
__________________
Josh Jaros Remodeling in The Woodlands, Texas www.jarosbros.com
You will find that stainless steel doesn't resist twisting very well. As the screw goes through the concrete, it heats up alot more than you would think it does, and the shank twists when it is hot and it is introduced to the load of piercing the wood underneath. Also, the heads on most screws are designed to countersink themselves in wood, by spreading the fibers. When the screw is pulled tight to the hardie plank, it tries to spread it also, and the result is almost always a split, because concrete has zero tension strength. So the only screws I would use are pan head screws, and pre-drill each one, but those would look ridiculous, in my opinion. <---too funny
hello everyone, new guy here. I would like to thank you guys on a great forum. spent about 2 hours reading it tonight. I am in the process of redoing my brothers house (lots of rot). I replaced the sill plates, ripped of old sheathing and put new 3/4 plywood on. So, I just received 20 squares of hardie plank (5 inch reveal). I spent the day with priming the back of it with a high end SW primer. I know I have to prime all cuts before install and flash at butt joints. BUT I am a little confused on 2 things.
1-) instead of mounting the planks to the wood studs. can I use SS screws and mount it to the 3/4 plywood every 12 inchs??? I want to use screws to help reduce and waves and saving coin on my buying a siding gun.
2-) Alot of people mention to caulk butt joints. How do you caulk the butt joints when the primer is still wet???
thanks!!!
Ralph
Read through their installation guide. You HAVE to follow it.
Thanks guys, I appreciate the help. I got the siding in the other day and primed the BACK of the boards and hopefully will be installing this sat. One more question for you, the butt joints. whats the best way to cut them so they look good/?? at a 45 or just straight cuts,prime and but them up?
Hardie just wants you to straight cut and leave an 1/8" between boards (for expansion) with a strip of felt behind the joins. With a scarf joint, I would be worried about the edge chipping. Hardie had recommended using caulk between the boards but for some reason they did away with that. Anyone know why?
To minimize the waviness, you could you could put down 1/2” foam and install the siding over that. I think the wavy siding adds character, though.
__________________
You'll never be sorry you bought the best.
Last edited by Clutchcargo; 10-29-2009 at 03:07 PM.
Thanks clutch cargo. I noticed about the no more caulk at butt joints as well. Never found out why they pulled it from their instructions. I do know some contractors are still doing it. I have 3/4 stratofoam on the walls, added R5 to the 2x4 walls. Guess I will go the nail route.
I recently installed hardiplank on my house but used Reglets for all the reveals and joints to give a very modern look. The hardiplank was a smooth finished so I drilled and countersinked and screwed with DeckMate fasteners. Afterwards I filled and sanded all holes so the screw pattern didn't show when I painted it.
I recently installed hardiplank on my house but used Reglets for all the reveals and joints to give a very modern look. The hardiplank was a smooth finished so I drilled and countersinked and screwed with DeckMate fasteners. Afterwards I filled and sanded all holes so the screw pattern didn't show when I painted it.
That's the type of detail that most non-DIY people would shy away from as I'm sure it would substantially drive up the price if a pro installed .
What is Reglets? Do you have a picture?
That's the type of detail that most non-DIY people would shy away from as I'm sure it would substantially drive up the price if a pro installed .
What is Reglets?
Your absolutely correct, my contractor waited to the last minute to do this on the project and then when I ran out of money and patience with him I took it over. Im glad I did there was a lot of detail that the architect miss and I am sure he would have missed as well.
Reglets give a cool modern look but its a total pain since the aluminum reglet is the trim which you have to install first and you only have about 1/8" tolerance Its even harder when your dealing with a house a little bit slanted. Ive enclosed some pictures before a sanded and painted
Hi this is Jon on behalf of Expert Village in this video clip we will making cleats. Cleats are small pieces of wood that we nail on to our cabinetry that will be on the inside where no one can see it. This will aide when we put our top on will be able... Read More »
O.k., so now that we have all of our tools in place, we're going to go over some of the materials we'll need, including paint, for painting our kitchen. Alright, first, this is the caulking, it comes in a variety of different colors and we want to have... Read More »
Hi this is Jon on behalf of Expert Village in this video clip we will laying out and cutting our finished top. If I take a look at the top of my chest of drawers it doesn't look as good as it could. If you take a closer look you'll see that we have our... Read More »
Hello! My name is Grady Johnson and I am a professional painter and today I am representing expertvillage.com. Now I would like to talk about the materials we are going to need for the exterior wall painting today. To start with we are going to have to... Read More »
Hi this is Jon on behalf of Expert Village in this video clip I'll be talking about the types of materials that we're going to use for our project. The material that we are going to be using first is 3/4" oak plywood, this plywood comes in 4 feet wide by... Read More »
hardie plank install questions
<---too funny
Linear Mode
