Grading An Existing Deck - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-16-2013, 04:32 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 117
Rewards Points: 85
Default

Grading an existing deck


Hi,

I have an existing second story deck over a concrete patio, which we want to waterproof and therefore need to add a grade to the deck surface for water run-off. The deck is approx 40x10.

The current thinking is that I can use screwjacks to support the deck while I cut approx 2" out of the support posts and then lower and reattach the support beam to the posts. I am worried about the effect this will have on the ledger board where the joists are attached, i.e. will the residual stresses have an effect?

Also, it doesn't look like the ledger board is attached using lag bolts or the like. How else would they have attached this back in 1998? Was it code then to use lag bolts or similar?

Thanks
Chris
Attached Thumbnails
Grading an existing deck-deck.jpg  

Advertisement


Last edited by spiragui; 02-16-2013 at 04:41 PM.
spiragui is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 04:38 PM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 27,745
Rewards Points: 606
Default

Grading an existing deck


Picture did not come out.
And your right to be worryed.

Advertisement

joecaption is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 04:41 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Hartfield VA
Posts: 27,745
Rewards Points: 606
Default

Grading an existing deck


http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=...stem&FORM=VDRE
joecaption is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 04:41 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 117
Rewards Points: 85
Default

Grading an existing deck


Wierd about the picture. It shows up in Chrome, but not IE. If you click on it in IE though it displays OK...
spiragui is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 04:43 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 117
Rewards Points: 85
Default

Grading an existing deck


Joe,

I looked at the undersurface drainage systems, but we get a lot of tree debris around here and I think it would be a maintenance nightmare. Plus we want to install potlights etc underneath the deck. Also there is a lot of blocking (for the non-square corners etc), sistered joists etc that makes the underdeck systems very difficult to install.

Thanks
Chris

Last edited by spiragui; 02-16-2013 at 05:17 PM.
spiragui is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2013, 05:29 PM   #6
Master General ReEngineer
 
Bondo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chaumont River, Ny.
Posts: 3,820
Rewards Points: 2,274
Default

Grading an existing deck


Quote:
Originally Posted by spiragui View Post
Hi,

I have an existing second story deck over a concrete patio, which we want to waterproof and therefore need to add a grade to the deck surface for water run-off. The deck is approx 40x10.

The current thinking is that I can use screwjacks to support the deck while I cut approx 2" out of the support posts and then lower and reattach the support beam to the posts. I am worried about the effect this will have on the ledger board where the joists are attached, i.e. will the residual stresses have an effect?

Also, it doesn't look like the ledger board is attached using lag bolts or the like. How else would they have attached this back in 1998? Was it code then to use lag bolts or similar?

Thanks
Chris
Ayuh,.... 2 inches in 10 feet is too much,.... It'll be noticeable walkin' it...

An Inch is plenty...
Bondo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2013, 06:47 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 117
Rewards Points: 85
Default

Grading an existing deck


Thanks Guys,

I think I will aim for about 3/16 per foot grade. Minimum for the material is 1/8, but they recommend 3/16 to 1/4.

A question regarding attaching the ledger board to the house:

Currently the deck is prevented from pulling away from the house, or shearing vertically, using the nails that are driven through the joist hangers into the ledger board / rim joist. The ledger board is then attached very securely to the house structure (rim joist) using lag bolts. However this just prevents the ledger board from going anywhere; the joists are still only attached by the nails holding the joist hangers. A chain always fails at its weakest link, so why are the lag bolts necessary (assuming of course that the joist hanger nails penetrate through both the ledger board and the rim joist) ?

I know code is based on sound analysis and experience, so I must be missing something. What am I missing? And fell free to berate me if I am missing something blatantly obvious!

Cheers
Chris

Advertisement

spiragui is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Deck stairs over existing stone retaining wall steps joshg3p0 Building & Construction 16 05-03-2012 12:30 AM
Yankee gutter resurfacing options miamicuse Roofing/Siding 24 01-06-2012 09:20 AM
possible gazebo off my existing deck rollinastang Carpentry 3 05-23-2011 04:52 PM
Install Flashing onto existing deck ledger, stucco home Ameekins Building & Construction 1 09-15-2010 06:51 PM
Extend existing deck dknarnd Building & Construction 1 04-25-2010 09:09 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts