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-   -   glass block perimeter channel in brick wall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/glass-block-perimeter-channel-brick-wall-103332/)

amakarevic 05-02-2011 12:53 AM

glass block perimeter channel in brick wall
 
i have reopened a small narrow window opening that is 14" wide and 40" high. it is formed of two layers of bricks in thickness.

i want to close it with 4 rows of glass blocks, each row having 2 blocks that are 6 wide and 8 high. with spacers and perimeter channels, the structure is exactly 12" wide, which then leaves an inch on either side that need to be filled somehow.

since the perimeter needs to be somehow affixed to the brick opening around it, i was wondering if the regular brick mortar (not glass block mortar) will adhere the plastic of the perimeter channel to the brick like it adheres brick to brick. my concern is that i won't because PVC is smoother than brick, i.e. doesn't have the texture to adhere to. but i'm hoping i am wrong because the opening is too narrow for me to fit my SDS-plus hammer drill to drill holes for screws and fasten the perimeter channel.

i do have a Milwaukee right angle drill but that's not a hammer drill, i.e. even if i use carbide tip bit i'm not sure if it will drill through masonry (at the time of writing this i'm unable to try to not disturb the neighbors).

i hope you understand the dilemma from all i've said. i don't think pictures are necessary but let me know if you think they'd be helpful.

in the best case scenario, i'd assemble and mortar the whole composition outside, then fit it in the opening with a bed of mortar and tuckpoint mortar in the 1" spaces on either side. then i would fill the gap on top. but my fear is that that might not hold the plastic because of the smooth texture.

alternatively, if there is some material that is either self-adhesive or can be glued to the outside of the perimeter so that it does adhere to mortar, that would work too.

thanks

SteelToes 05-02-2011 11:25 AM

3 Attachment(s)
You've got three options;
First i think you can buy a converter chuck kit to convert standard chuck in to a hammer chuck.

Second use construction adhesive mortar adhesive and glue the channel to the brick

Or predrill the channel and nail on with a masonry nails

amakarevic 05-02-2011 01:44 PM

thanks. #3 is not an option because, if i can't fit a hammer drill into the opening sideways, then i don't really have enough space to swing a hammer to put nails in.

i think i might go for #2. is the brand Sika?

SteelToes 05-02-2011 02:08 PM

Yes, brand name is Sika , i prefer Sika but any other type of construction adhesive should work.

For me 12" its plenty of room to nail something in :wallbash::hammer:

Something else ;
You know you can drill those holes with an angle drill ?..the only problem is that its going to fry your bit once you're done..

amakarevic 05-02-2011 02:10 PM

oh, frying the bit ain't no problem cause i got one that came with a box of screws. if it lasts through about 10 holes, i'll be grateful

SteelToes 05-02-2011 02:13 PM

I think it will do about 9 holes :laughing:, go try it out an let me know what happened ....

amakarevic 05-02-2011 02:26 PM

will do but first i have to apply mortar in the gaps on either side

amakarevic 05-03-2011 02:41 PM

1 Attachment(s)
i poured mortar into the gap around a rectangular form i made with 2x6 and it looks great, solid, and the size is perfect. however, i am not a firm believer in glue (except for epoxy) and i have two questions:

1. if i do try to drill through about 3/4" padding i made with mortar, which is about 5"x36" (i also used wire mesh to hold it to brick better), do you think that will crumble the mortar padding?

2. if i go adhesive/glue only (i did get the Sika one), do you think i can paint over the mortar with something to prime it for the adhesive so as to be sure it never weakens and stops being adhesive?

photo attached

thanks

SteelToes 05-03-2011 03:39 PM

What you've got there is a double wythe brick wall.

Your better option would be to install those blocks with a panel anchor construction instead of channel type restraint construction.
http://pittsburghcorning.com/files/p...esign-data.pdf
See attached link section PCD042 ;
http://www.twincitiesglassblock.com/...-185_16-20.pdf

Also you are missing a window sill , bottom of the window opening needs to be sloped out PCD042.
http://www.twincitiesglassblock.com/...-185_16-20.pdf

Opening should be primed with asphalt emulsion prior to installation.

After all you said you want to be a construction geek :thumbup:

amakarevic 05-03-2011 10:01 PM

i don't want a sill on the outside, i want the glass blocks to be completely flush with the bricks around them, as though they were parts of the wall.

is there issue with that?

thanks

amakarevic 05-03-2011 10:12 PM

the pic was taken from the inside, looking at the neighbor's wall


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