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Old 01-02-2008, 10:10 PM   #16
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Getting Slab poured soon.. . need help with roof


Alright, So I am going to remove the first layer of my existing shingles and butt up the plie-wood to it and then lay the new shingles over it and go all the way down?? I am just trying to make sure I understand.. or can I leave the shingles that are there?

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Old 01-02-2008, 10:40 PM   #17
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Will the software you used design a roof for you - maybe to help you visualize the roof tie-in. The roof line on the right would be on the same plane as the existing, the left side would end up forming a valley with the existing roof on that side meeting the ridge of the new roof at the hip ridge of the existing.
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Old 01-02-2008, 10:53 PM   #18
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lol ok. I think I understand it now.
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Old 01-02-2008, 11:25 PM   #19
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I don't favor building lay-on roofs on top of existing shingles - some others do, I've seen it many times. But you could remove the ridge cap up to the point where the new ridge would tie-in and then all the shingle from there to where the valley would tie-in on the other side. (pie shaped area) During construction you would just keep this area tarped off at night. And on the right side, I'd also remove some shingles and a couple sheathes of plywood too so that the new plywood and shingles would tie-in across the existing hip ridge.
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Old 01-03-2008, 05:56 AM   #20
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wouldn't you have some serious problems with humidity/moisture/mold with the hot tub being built inside like that? Just asking.
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Old 01-03-2008, 11:33 AM   #21
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What kind of roof is this, what is it made out of? That's what I am wanting to use.
http://www.patioenc.com/images/Image...1026221474.jpg
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Old 01-03-2008, 04:47 PM   #22
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What kind of roof is this, what is it made out of? That's what I am wanting to use.
http://www.patioenc.com/images/Image...1026221474.jpg
It's a patio enclosure roof made typically of aluminum, non-structural, non-insulated, non-heating/cooling that's tied into the house HVAC system. I've never seen it used with regular construction. Possibly the wet bar wouldn't be an option, I don't know about TX. Here, that would be considered a three season room. You probably would have to go with a free standing non-vented fireplace. This kind of highlights the restrictions vs options I mentioned earlier.

If you go with this type of structure, with the flat roof line, I'd suggest shifting your room to the left (as viewed in the pic.) leaving the existing door outside of the enclosure. This would allow the roof the tie-in to the existing higher, if needed, and still not stick out above the existing hip ridge.

Last edited by pavola; 01-04-2008 at 06:56 PM. Reason: noticed I had the wrong state
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:55 PM   #23
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concrete guy came today said that the other slab wasn't thick enough to build on. He would have ot break it up. I redrew my plans and i will post them tomorrow. I am going to just do a 16 x 14 building and cover the other 16 x 11 for the hot tub.
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Old 01-03-2008, 10:13 PM   #24
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If you have $5000 and are looking at a sunroom of any quality, forget it. Yup, they look like they're snap together but they're not that easy. The roof you may be thinking of is actually a 3" or 4" thick specially designed panel with tough exterior sides and a highly compressed polystyrene type insulation material between. Call it "Tough Core", Smart Roof, there's different names and they all cost money. We build sunrooms from three different manufacturers, they range in price from $23,000 to $150,000 in our area.

Take a look at this: http://www.hbsohio.com/images/canopysample.jpg , finished it in August for a client that didn't want to pay $45,000 for a similar structure, we speed-built this one for her at $18,500, she loves it and slab was extra. If this lil ol' canopy cost that much, you're not going to get an enclosed room with the things you want for $5,000. Your windows and doors alone will probably blow that budget.

pavola called it for you, hip roof, standard wall construction, plenty of windows and heaps of ventilation. Flat ceiling will hide your existing roof area, probably easier than a sunroom for you to build and cheaper.
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Old 01-04-2008, 09:21 AM   #25
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Well the concrete contractor is going to pour next Thursday.... Because he had something else come up. Which is going to give me more time to prep..... here is my most recent and final drawing.
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Old 01-04-2008, 06:44 PM   #26
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concrete guy came today said that the other slab wasn't thick enough to build on. He would have ot break it up. I redrew my plans and i will post them tomorrow. I am going to just do a 16 x 14 building and cover the other 16 x 11 for the hot tub.
Are there footings under the existing? If so, no need to break it up. BTW, your new slab will need frost footings if you're building on it as well. Use a piece of re-bar to check if there's footings under the current slab, and how deep they are. Frost footings here in MI are 42" below grade, what is TX requirements?

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Old 01-04-2008, 06:53 PM   #27
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If you have $5000 and are looking at a sunroom of any quality, forget it. Yup, they look like they're snap together but they're not that easy. The roof you may be thinking of is actually a 3" or 4" thick specially designed panel with tough exterior sides and a highly compressed polystyrene type insulation material between. Call it "Tough Core", Smart Roof, there's different names and they all cost money. We build sunrooms from three different manufacturers, they range in price from $23,000 to $150,000 in our area.

I haven't installed any sunroom structures, but I have heard of these prices . I'm curious, can these "Tough Core" products or any others you've installed be use for spaces considered livable and add square footage to the home?


Take a look at this: http://www.hbsohio.com/images/canopysample.jpg ,
Good looking, and beefy, solid.
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Old 01-04-2008, 07:57 PM   #28
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pavola, you can use the thermally insulated roof panels for virtually any domestic contruction. They can be expensive because your roof is comprised of the panels and a designed aluminum channelling system.
I sell C-Thru, Florian and Blue Diamond sunrooms and conservatories and have used the panels in a number of situations. Recently built a master bedroom addtion using the panels.
Love the product BUT doesn't mean I'm a fan of the finished look......don't forget, a patio room is a patio room........
I'm a traditional construction type of person. Want a home to look like a home from front to back and will go overboard in achieving that look...
Klint, love what you're trying to do......pour your slab, BUT, expect to pay more than your thinking.......if that happens fine, the idea in sending you the canopy photo was not to brag, it was to show you that our lady was originally looking at a $45,000 canopy to entertain in, with some careful planning and some ingenious use of other materials we achieved the same look for a fraction of the cost and didn't skimp on quality.

You can achieve what you want, maybe spend a little more but you can still save a ton of money...
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Old 01-04-2008, 08:08 PM   #29
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kiwi45, do you use these panels for the walls too, and/or use the roof panels on regular constrution walls?
Trying not to hijack Klint's thread, but think it relative to the option idea through out.
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:22 PM   #30
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kiwi45, do you use these panels for the walls too, and/or use the roof panels on regular constrution walls?
Trying not to hijack Klint's thread, but think it relative to the option idea through out.
Wall and roof, usually a 3" on the wall, 3" or 4" on the roof. They would be ideal for a hot tub area, aluminum skin both sides, compressed polystyrene inside, great insulation.

We use a 6" for the floor as well, Four Seasons call it a smart deck and have been using it for some years now. Aluminum on the bottom OSB on the top of the panel.

I've only used it with aluminum channels supplied by the manufacturer because of weatherproofing. Haven't yet used it in standard construction but know there are similar products out there being used.

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