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PaliBob 02-15-2009 03:42 PM

A Garage Steel Stud partition wall
3 Attachment(s)
Ive never used steel studs but Ive been told their easy to cut with aviation snips and to fasten the base and top sections to the concrete floor, the block wall and to the slab ceiling with 1 hex head tapcons. Then assemble the stud framing with #10 Phillips Pan self drilling screws and to mount the Greenboard drywall with #6 Phillips Buglehead Head Self Drilling screws.
This is a project for a friend which will include drywall on 8 of the block wall behind the desk. Putting up the short partition wall first will be easier. The end stud will be a 2x4, which will be the only wood in the wall.

Questions are:
1)Should I use PVC trim (AZEK) under the base? There has never been flooding.
2)Is any cross bracing needed for such a short wall?
3)Will 24 o.c. spacing be OK for the Tapcons?
4) Any tips?

Thanks Ive learned a lot on this Forum


Bob Mariani 02-15-2009 06:43 PM

seems like you are on the right track. Maybe consider wood blocking anywhere you may need to hang something on the walls. Like shelves over the desk. No cross bracing is needed. 24" is fine. Nothing needs to be under the base track.

Scuba_Dave 02-15-2009 07:40 PM

If there is a garage on the other side of the wall then the wall must be fire rated. And if there will be a door to the garage the door must be fire rated. There are also rules on penetrations on both sides in the same stud bay

PaliBob 02-15-2009 08:44 PM


Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave (Post 230887)
If there is a garage on the other side of the wall ........

Sorry Scuba, I didn't give enough info. The pic was taken from the garage door side looking toward the long axis of this five Condo building. The block wall is on the property line to the adjacent lot. This is a two car garage. Each of the five Condo's has their own two car Garage separated on each side by a block wall. In the pic the long block wall (with the desk) runs the length of the property. Each of the five Garage doors open to a common vehicle driveway (level with each garage floor) that runs the length of the building and borders the next Condo up the street. This drive is accessed only from the the street side, down a ramp and through the security gate.

Not visible is the owner's one car to the immediate right. The front of the car faces the block wall. The reason the new office partition will be so short, is to not cramp opening the drivers door.

Scuba_Dave 02-15-2009 08:51 PM

Ah, so you are building an office IN the garage & it remains a garage
And it will not be separate (totally) from the garage

PaliBob 02-15-2009 08:53 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's the original pic before it was hacked.

Bronx 02-16-2009 01:30 PM

PaliBob, I think that 1 3/4 tapcons are to long. You can use a 1 1/4 and have 800 Lbs of pull out per screw as long as they are into the base material at least 1". If you are useing steel studs then the mininum enbedment of 1" will not be a problem. There is a tapcon installation video on Be sure to use a hammer drill when you drill into the concrete. Also you will want to clean out the hole with a shopvac before driving the tapcon into the concrete.

PaliBob 02-16-2009 03:21 PM

Bronx, Thanks for the good advice. You are right on about 1-1/4" Tapcons. I just got back from HD where I picked up the smallest box of 1/4 X 1-1/4 hex head tapcons.

I did do something that I've never done before. I took advice from a HD guy. He suggested using "Metal Hit Anchors" on the ceiling rail. I bought a bag of ten Hilti 1/4 X 1-1/4 Anchors. They have slightly more pull-out than the 1-1/4 Tapcons but for this short wall they are still overkill.

I'll use the tapcons on the block wall and the base because they are easier to take out on the next remodel.

No problem on the hammerdrill. I have three plus a SDS Plus, Bosch Rotary Hammer. I going to try out my newest hammerdrill a Metabo Porsche. It comes with an SDS chuck and a 1/2" conventional chuck. I bought mine on a clearance that was a little cheaper than the Amazon price.

Bronx 02-16-2009 03:32 PM

Never listen to the HD guy.
I was in home depot last week and I could not get the guy to get off the cell phone to answer my question. The metal hit anchors are a good anchor as well but they are held in place by friction and the tapcons cut threads into the concrete. They both have there own benefits, it comes down to a personal choice. That web site that you sent me had much better prices on concrete fasteners than you would ever find at the depot.

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