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-   -   Garage Door rot- Spray Foam? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/garage-door-rot-spray-foam-75918/)

whoppr 07-11-2010 05:51 PM

Garage Door rot- Spray Foam?
 
Hi...

Im not terribly handy, somewhat handy maybe, but am trying to get a little better around the house. Recently I noticed rot on some vertical studs around the garage door. There are two and not load bearing. Im debating what I should do but would really like to avoid replacing them altogether unless its necessary since the rails which are used for the garage doors are mounted to these. These are NOT load bearing as I mentioned since they sit 1/4 inch or so off the ground already abutting concrete on the garage floor. The builder didnt use pressure treated lumber so of course they would rot from the splash.

Can I cut out the rot, maybe 1-4 inches which would get it further from the ground and then use spray foam to keep water from splashing and wicking up?

Thanks

Werner

Ron6519 07-11-2010 08:05 PM

You can do anything you want, it's your house. I would replace the rotted wood. Leaving it in place will let the rot continue to more important areas.
Ron

Gary in WA 07-11-2010 09:02 PM

"Can I cut out the rot, maybe 1-4 inches which would get it further from the ground and then use spray foam to keep water from splashing and wicking up? ----- That could be acceptable if you stop the water intrusion. I would not use spray foam as it will let moisture pass through it, unless 8" thick. Use pressure treated wood treated with a water repellent sealed from below with caulking not to wick water. http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/advice/faq.cfm
Actually, the jambs are load bearing from the front 1/2 of the garage door while in the up position, the back 1/2 hangs off the rafters/ceiling joists. Some double doors can be quite heavy. The rot will continue if water is present, #6: http://bct.nrc.umass.edu/index.php/p...ns-about-wood/

Be safe, Gary

whoppr 07-12-2010 01:17 PM

Mind if I post a few pics...Its hard for me to describe. There is a concrete foundation around the garage (except where the doors are) that sits maybe 6"-8" above the ground and garage floor. The doors have some studs which I assume are the load bearing ones which sit on this concrete foundation. There are an additional two studs which do not touch the ground and concrete floor which abut the two studs which sit on the foundation. Im assuming most of the load is put on the studs which sit on the foundation. Its important for the nails to be secure between the ones that extend to the floor (and have the tracks bolted to it) and the ones that sit on the foundation.

Im probably not describing it adequately.

drtbk4ever 07-12-2010 01:58 PM

Absolutely post some photos.

forresth 07-12-2010 03:07 PM

I'd just replace them with preure treated and be done with it.


if you really are set on cutting corners, buy 1 board, cut it in half and replace the bottom half of both sides.

whoppr 07-16-2010 11:13 AM

3 Attachment(s)
OK, so here are the pix. Sorry for the delay. You can see the studs which extend close to the ground are rotting. Not horribly but enough. You can also see that most of the load is on the studs which sit on the concrete foundation. The garage door is attached to the studs which extend close to the ground so the load gets pushed from these studs to the ones that sit on the foundation if I am not mistaken.

Im not trying to cut corners. Im just a little nervous about unbolting the door rails and re-attaching.

Im something is not terribly clear I can take and post more pictures or explain.

Thanks

drtbk4ever 07-16-2010 11:51 AM

Just lookin at the photos I'm thinking it would likely be easier to remove the whole board rather than just a portion of it. Is the plywood on either side of the 2X4 rotting as well?

whoppr 07-16-2010 12:00 PM

On the inside the plywood seems fine. There is a chunk I pulled off on the outside that I will replace as well. Its literally only a 4"x4" square. I hate to buy a full sheet just for that so I thought of looking in some scrap section of Home Depot to see if I can find a piece they can sell me... Either that or put PVC of same thickness if I can find it (Azek) or plane something to fit.

Pulling the whole board might be an option. I will shoot another picture of that when I get home tonight. I think it will require removing a little more of the surrounding studs since the frame isnt square. I dont remember offhand but will look and post. Top corners are at a 45. Like this.

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Gary in WA 07-16-2010 02:36 PM

You don't need to be scared of it crashing down. Replace a 1' or less section of that first stud, and the second if needed. The three studs bearing on the double bottom plate are for the shear wall, the other one or two are non-structural. Remove the lag screw into the bottom bracket and stud if needed, The strip of plywood was installed to project the garage door hardware into the room in case you added drywall inside later. Much easier than notching drywall around the hardware later. Use p.t. wood that has been waterproofed by the manufacturer or yourself. The box stores sell 1/4 and 1/8 sheets of ply. You may have to realign the opener sensor afterward, very easy. When installing your door jamb trim again, do so with the door shut, leaving 1/8" of movement for expansion.

Be safe, Gary


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