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#1 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
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Garage Door Question
I have been reviewing the Garage Door questions in the archives and none seem to match what I need to know so I figured I'd ask.
I have a new 8 x 7' clopay insulated door. I need to remove the track and lower the garage door opener so I can put up a vapor barrier and 5/8" sheetrock above it. What is the best way to get this done? Can I just remove the brackets from the ceiling without having to disengage the extension springs? Someone previously told me to place vice grips on the springs to secure them but I prefer to double check everything that I'm told if it doesn't quite sit well with me. I can take pictures if necessary. I believe there's a total of 9 bolts, three on the door opener's track and three each on the T bracket for the low clearance tracks. I appreciate any and all information that you can put forth on this. I am going to try to finish this project before Friday so I can get my garage done. |
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#2 |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 8,851
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Garage Door Question
The springs would need to be relaxed in order to remove the back-hang overhead track with the door in the shut position. Go to Coplay's site and inform yourself first. The track will flex and possibly cause pain..... Just drywall around the perf metal "L' bar or have it re-hung.
Gary
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Clothes taking longer to dry?
Clean the dryer screen in HOT water if using fabric softener sheets. They leave a residue that impedes air-flow, costing you money. Clean the ducting in the last six months? 17,000 dryer fires annually! |
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#3 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
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Garage Door Question
Thank you for the response. I will do that so I have a better idea of what's going on prior to attempting anything that could be detrimental to my health.
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#4 |
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Chicago, IL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,037
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Garage Door Question
I definitely do NOT recommend maintenance or removal of torsion-type garage door springs as a DIY project, but if you want some idea of what can be involved, take a look here:
How I Replaced Deadly Garage Door Torsion Springs ... (and lived to tell the tale)
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Home Inspections, Infrared (Thermal Imaging) Leak Identification and Inspection Services, Roof, Attic, Building, Basement and Foundation Moisture Intrusion and Water Leak Inspections, Troubled Building Consultations - Serving Chicago and Suburbs To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#5 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
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Garage Door Question
Thank you for the link. I understand that terminology can change, but that is different than what I have. I have two large springs perpendicular to the door extending into the garage. I think these are referred to as Extension Springs or that might just be around here? Interesting reading though.
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#6 |
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Chicago, IL
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 1,037
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Garage Door Question
Sorry, all the Clopay doors I've seen were a torsion string design...
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Home Inspections, Infrared (Thermal Imaging) Leak Identification and Inspection Services, Roof, Attic, Building, Basement and Foundation Moisture Intrusion and Water Leak Inspections, Troubled Building Consultations - Serving Chicago and Suburbs To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. |
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#7 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Near Cleveland, Ohio
Posts: 1,334
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Garage Door Question
Wikkie,
When I used to hang doors in the new houses before drywall, which I didn't recommend btw, but that's what the builder wanted. The drywall guys would usually drwall around the angle irons on the ceiling. With your spring setup and that size door not being that heavy, you could disconnect the springs easy enough, especially with another person there to help. Put the door in the up position. There is hardly any tension on the springs now. Put a vise grip on one of the rollers and clamp it to the rail. Snugly, but don't squish the heck out of it. Now you can disconnect the springs one at a time by removing the S hook that is attached to the cable that runs around the pulley that is attached to the spring. Note or mark which hole the hook is in. The S hook will be in one of the holes in the rail close to the front of the garage. Once you have both cable disconnected, the springs are no longer under tension, nor are they going to hold the door up. With your helper on one side of the door and you on the other, unclamp the vise grip and slowly lower the door without letting it slam down. It isn't that heavy for that size door. Go ahead and disconnect what you have to for your drywalling. I would take a few measurements where each angle is and make a little drawing up just you can get them back up in the same place easily. Should be held up with lag bolts with 7/16's heads. If you have a cordless impact, it would make things real easy. Mike Hawkins
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#8 |
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Vermont
Posts: 762
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Garage Door Question |
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#9 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 25
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Garage Door Question
Just an update:
Thank you all for the information and the knowledge. With a lot of knowledge provided by this forum and the right tools, I got everything completed and have a fully sealed ceiling as opposed to drywalling around my doors. Thanks again. |
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