Garage Door Installation

Branden

Will be installing new garage doors soon. This will include framing in the opening to the proper dimensions of the door. I've never done this before. Just throwing this post up to see if anyone has any tips or advice that they may have gathered from past experience. Thanks

firehawkmph

Branden,
Frame the rough opening to the size of the door. In other words, if you have a 16' x 7' door, make the rough opening that size. Then when you put your finish jambs in, they will cover the edges of the door a bit on the sides and top. On the inside, run a 2 x 4 up both sides, flush with the rough opening. Run one across the top also with the bottom flush with your rough opening. If you are using a door with a torsion spring setup, install a wood block above the center of the opening. A 2 x 8 or 10 works well. Cut is so it fits right on top of the 2 x 4 you already installed and runs to the ceiling. Make sure it is fastened securly. This will provide a mounting spot for your spring pad and opener if you plan on one.
If you are going with vinyl siding, an easy way to do the jambs is to use a 2 x 6 for the jambs. When you install your 2 x 4's on the inside, they will but right up to the 2 x 6's and make a nice solid corner. Once the door is up, cover the jambs with aluminum coil stock and install the vinyl weatherstrips that come with the door. Make sure the aluminum doesn't stick past the 2 x stock on the inside. Any other questions, feel free to ask.
Mike Hawkins

Branden

Mike,

Thanks for the advice. I do have a couple questions. I am installing 2 8x7 doors. The width of the rough opening from block to block is about 8'3", so it should work out close if I use 2x6's on both sides. What if my opening turns out being about 1" smaller than the actual door size, is that OK?

When you say to run a 2x4 on the inside flush with the rough opening, I am assuming that you want me to run these perpendicular to the 2x6's to create a nice 90 degree corner on the inside. Am I correct?

There is a good chance that I'll have a few more questions once I start, but I ran into another problem with the garage that I should repair first, probably going to start the framing this coming sunday or monday.

firehawkmph

The 8' 3" openings should work fine. If you end up a bit smaller than the door size that is ok too. When I ran into problems was when openings were framed a couple of inches too big and the weatherstrips wouldn't cover the edge of the door. As far as the 2 x 4's on the inside you are correct. They will form a nice 90 degree corner with the 2 x 6. Also you need to add something on the outside for your trim. Some people use brickmold, now available in the manmade material or they will use a 2 x 4 on the flat and cover it with aluminum coil stock along with the jamb.
Mike Hawkins

Branden

I'll probably go with the aluminum coil stock. Never worked with the stuff, but I've seen it done. I think I can rent a brake from somewhere. I need to drop the top of the opening down about 1.5 feet and above it is some old asbestos siding. I plan on removing the old siding and using vinyl all the way down to the doors.

I am not sure what you mean when you say that I need to add something outside to my trim. I figured that I can just cover the 2x6 with the aluminum and be done with it. What do you mean when you say "they will use a 2 x 4 on the flat and cover it with aluminum coil stock along with the jamb"

I think that you mean to run a 2x4 perpendicular and flush with the inside of the 2x6's similar to what I am doing on the inside, but this time it will come over the outside of the block. If this is the case, I have some old textured block, so I don't know if this will be possible.

jlhaslip

firehawkmph has a good reply.

When I use coil stock to face a door jamb, the 2x6 can be replaced with a 2x8 and that creates a 'brick mould'.
keep it flush to the inside of the framing as above.
It will stick out enough to allow siding to rest against it, similar to a brick moulding.

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