Garage Conversion questions

TaazKareem · 09-21-2008, 08:12 PM

Hey! I have a one-car garage that I'm converting and soundproofing into a small recording studio. Have a question

The garage door will be removed so do I have to do some type of anchoring for the the new mudsill to base the new exterior wall off of. I don't really know how that works, but I understand how the wall is supposed to be built. The mudsill (or sill plate) won't be nailed into concrete I'm sure so, how is it anchored? Or would it just rest on the concrete slab?

Also as you can see on this picture, there is about 4 inches of concrete where the other mudsills are on, do I use two 2x4 lumber to bring the new wall up to that level to match the existing walls? thx!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3258/...bc88f95d_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3015/...a5859f51_b.jpg

buletbob · 09-21-2008, 09:34 PM

IF it was my project I would proceed by saw cutting along the inside and outside of the foundation wall under the existing garage door. dig down until you reach the foundation stem wall. ( tip use an 8" spade and keep the trench straight and clean) then fill with cement and install one coarse of cement block even with the top of the existing foundation. Should be about 8" + - above grade. If you don't reach the stem wall dig down below your area frost line.and then drill two 1/2" re bar pins into each side of the existing foundation. so the new wall and old wall will be pinned together once poured. Once your block is installed pick up some 3 foundation anchor bolts . fill the tops of the block solid with cement and then install one bolt at each end and the last in the middle letting them stick up about 4" and cut and install your ACQ sill plates and termite shield with sill seal. Hope this was of some use to you. BOB

TaazKareem · 09-22-2008, 03:27 PM

I don't understand all that. Isn't there an easier way? Does it absolutely have to be anchored like that? Can 2x4s be glued to the surface?

47_47 · 09-22-2008, 03:53 PM

You shouldn't place wood or siding in direct contact with the ground (rot and water intrusion). I did mine two years ago, like Bob suggested.

white29 · 09-23-2008, 04:32 PM

WOW! I just did this and I believe the garage door I removed was the twin brother of yours,judging from the hardware. Bob gave good advice. Take a circular saw with masonry blade to score floor surface where the garage door currently closes on both sides,about 8 inches wide.Bust it out and then dig down to the foundation and make a trench. I made forms and poured a curb about 6 inches high from concrete rather than using block. I used a concrete bonder to bind the new to the old foundation and placed some rebar into the trench too.While the concrete is fresh place anchor bolts and you'll attach your 2x4 (pressure treated) plate to these.Let the concrete cure a few days before building on it by keeping it covered with some damp burlap or towels.Be sure to use fasteners rated for treated lumber when building off the plate.

buletbob · 09-23-2008, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by white29

WOW! I just did this and I believe the garage door I removed was the twin brother of yours,judging from the hardware. Bob gave good advice. Take a circular saw with masonry blade to score floor surface where the garage door currently closes on both sides,about 8 inches wide.Bust it out and then dig down to the foundation and make a trench. I made forms and poured a curb about 6 inches high from concrete rather than using block. I used a concrete bonder to bind the new to the old foundation and placed some rebar into the trench too.While the concrete is fresh place anchor bolts and you'll attach your 2x4 (pressure treated) plate to these.Let the concrete cure a few days before building on it by keeping it covered with some damp burlap or towels.Be sure to use fasteners rated for treated lumber when building off the plate.

well stated!

TaazKareem · 09-24-2008, 01:08 AM

ok, how do I know how far to cut into the slab? Couldn't I just lay a strong cement "curb" without cutting, and anchor the plate to that?

buletbob · 09-24-2008, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TaazKareem

ok, how do I know how far to cut into the slab? Couldn't I just lay a strong cement "curb" without cutting, and anchor the plate to that?

I don't know what part of the country your from, but one problem that i see will happen is . if your in a frost zone when the ground freezes it will left the slab that you had set your curb on , which in turn will left the wall that is built on it. and if there is a window on that wall it will rack.

TazinCR · 09-24-2008, 08:13 AM

If the frost zone has not been a factor up to now I would drill 3-4 holes and put long quick bolts(expandable anchors) and leave them sticking up like rebar for the cement tp bond to.

Maintenance 6 · 09-24-2008, 10:13 AM

I would saw cut the floor slab about an inch deep, a few inches in from the outside. Grout or caulk a 2" piece of galvanized sheet into the slot. Drill in some threaded rod about every 2-3 feet and anchor or epoxy the rods so they stick up 3 inches above the height of your existing curb. Form and pour a curb across the opening that matches the existing. Work the concrete down around the sheet metal and the rods. Put a light rebar or two in it. The threaded rods will hold your sill plate down and keep the new curb in place. The sheet metal baffle will stop water from getting through between the new curb and the existing floor. If you ever decide you want the garage back, the whole mess can easily be demolished and returned to it's original state. If you haven't had any issues with the existing slab heaving in winter, then I wouldn't mess with it. It's probably already setting on the foundation.