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Old 04-14-2010, 03:52 PM   #16
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Gap between ledger and joists in hanger


"Thanks Gary, let me clarify, so your overall stance is not to shim anywhere on the project due to trapped moisture? Are you also saying that the H1Z hurricane ties and blocking will make up for the lack of support from the gap?" ---- Yes, and yes.

"The old deck had blocking which wasn't ripped and rested flush on the beam in between the joists, this is where major mold and fungus was growing." ---- Exactly! You won't find that in any book.

"They also didn't stagger the spacing either for the blocking, it was in a straight line all the way across." ---- In-line is strongest for mid-span, not required for over a bearing wall or beam: http://books.google.com/books?id=DWs...olumns&f=false

"To prevent gaps in the hanger should I have someone help raise the end of the joist level and nail it in? All I have been doing is pushing the joist as far back as it will go in the hanger, keeping it at the natural sloped angle. I don't know how the previous deck builder did it but the joists end butted up flush against the ledger." ------ I would angle cut the joists to get good meat for the shear nails going through the joists at a 45* into the ledger. (Check the old joists for an angle cut at the ledger or bent hangers). Basically the main lateral shear holding power away from the house other than the one top decking board that nails to ledger/joist at the house. Start there and cut the joists cantilever/rim after decking out 3 boards from the rim to get a professional fit with the final board.

You really need some continuous metal strapping installed in an 'X' pattern between the ledger/beam to prevent racking (nails under the joists), OR big diagonal corner framing on each post as the deck info stated. The strapping will safely tie the unit to the house if nailed to the ledger.

Be safe, Gary

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Old 04-14-2010, 04:26 PM   #17
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Gap between ledger and joists in hanger


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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
"Thanks Gary, let me clarify, so your overall stance is not to shim anywhere on the project due to trapped moisture? Are you also saying that the H1Z hurricane ties and blocking will make up for the lack of support from the gap?" ---- Yes, and yes.

"The old deck had blocking which wasn't ripped and rested flush on the beam in between the joists, this is where major mold and fungus was growing." ---- Exactly! You won't find that in any book.

"They also didn't stagger the spacing either for the blocking, it was in a straight line all the way across." ---- In-line is strongest for mid-span, not required for over a bearing wall or beam: http://books.google.com/books?id=DWs...olumns&f=false

"To prevent gaps in the hanger should I have someone help raise the end of the joist level and nail it in? All I have been doing is pushing the joist as far back as it will go in the hanger, keeping it at the natural sloped angle. I don't know how the previous deck builder did it but the joists end butted up flush against the ledger." ------ I would angle cut the joists to get good meat for the shear nails going through the joists at a 45* into the ledger. (Check the old joists for an angle cut at the ledger or bent hangers). Basically the main lateral shear holding power away from the house other than the one top decking board that nails to ledger/joist at the house. Start there and cut the joists cantilever/rim after decking out 3 boards from the rim to get a professional fit with the final board.

You really need some continuous metal strapping installed in an 'X' pattern between the ledger/beam to prevent racking (nails under the joists), OR big diagonal corner framing on each post as the deck info stated. The strapping will safely tie the unit to the house if nailed to the ledger.

Be safe, Gary

Thanks a lot Gary, that was very valuable information. Guess I'll use those shims to help me lift the blocking up 1/8" while I nail it in.

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