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Old 12-14-2009, 10:48 AM   #1
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Free Standing deck details


On a free standing deck how do you normally attach the rim board, that parallels and almost touches the side of the house. I am looking at L shaped brackets that I could screw in. Joist hangers might be overkill. I suppose I could position the joists a couple feet away from the house, screw the rim board in as I would an outer board, then sledge hammer the whole assembly into place. I'm not sure how that would work with seventeen 10' 2x10s.

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Old 12-14-2009, 11:27 AM   #2
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Free Standing deck details


Personally, I don't attach any part of a deck to any house, that's just me. I plan and cut my deck framing material so that the "ledger" board is as close to the house as possible, but allow for water and debris drainage. I cut the "house side" of my 4x4's so that the ledger board fits into them and bolt these in with hot-dipped galvanized carriage bolts, with the 4x4's set into the holes, but without concrete. After everything is bolted together, is set square and level, then I pour concrete around the posts. The rest of the deck is built from this as I consider this the most important side. I do use joist hangers for the deck framing. Generally, I use 2x8's for the exterior frame, then 2x6's for all interior deck framing, with footers/pilings. Depending on the homeowner's wishes, I do sometimes use carriage bolts for the entire framing, or use joist hangers inside the rim for aesthetic reasons. I, ME, don't particularly like decks that just "sit" on footer/pilings/post or whatever you wish to call them. I like my decks to be there after (Lord forbid) a strong wind takes the home away. Good Luck, David

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Old 12-14-2009, 04:18 PM   #3
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Free Standing deck details


Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurman View Post
Personally, I don't attach any part of a deck to any house, that's just me. I plan and cut my deck framing material so that the "ledger" board is as close to the house as possible, but allow for water and debris drainage. I cut the "house side" of my 4x4's so that the ledger board fits into them and bolt these in with hot-dipped galvanized carriage bolts, with the 4x4's set into the holes, but without concrete. After everything is bolted together, is set square and level, then I pour concrete around the posts. The rest of the deck is built from this as I consider this the most important side. I do use joist hangers for the deck framing. Generally, I use 2x8's for the exterior frame, then 2x6's for all interior deck framing, with footers/pilings. Depending on the homeowner's wishes, I do sometimes use carriage bolts for the entire framing, or use joist hangers inside the rim for aesthetic reasons. I, ME, don't particularly like decks that just "sit" on footer/pilings/post or whatever you wish to call them. I like my decks to be there after (Lord forbid) a strong wind takes the home away. Good Luck, David
that's good thinking. that way if the house does take off, they can just build another one, right next to your deck - and they don't even need to re-build the deck!
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Old 12-14-2009, 09:33 PM   #4
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Free Standing deck details


Thanks for the response. A board bolted to posts set in concrete would certainly be firm enough to be treated like a ledger, accepting the standard arrangement of joist hangers. I didn't think of that.
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Old 12-15-2009, 08:17 AM   #5
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Free Standing deck details


One of the local counties we work in has this pdf that lays out the specs for attached and free standing decks. Look at page 2 and it should give you the information you need.

One note on Thurman's response. If you pour concrete around the post after it is in the ground it gives you no bearing. The post is still sitting on dirt although the concrete will "grab" the side of the 4x4 or 6x6, it will not stand up to loads on the deck and it will settle.


Actually the file is too large for me to post but here is the direct link to their site:

http://gwinnettess.co.gwinnett.ga.us...ng_details.pdf
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Old 12-15-2009, 02:50 PM   #6
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Free Standing deck details


The new Deck Code: page #9 for posts on footings, page #15 for attaching free-standing to house: http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf

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Old 12-15-2009, 04:18 PM   #7
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Free Standing deck details


Thanks for the references but they don't quite show how to attach a rim board that is situated within an inch of the house siding. With only an inch of space you couldn't get your hand in there much less a hammer and nail, or a screw and angle drill.

I've attached a visual of my proposed lower deck. Its that rim board on the upper part of the diagram that I need to attach to the joist ends.

I doubt I can position a post close enough to the house to act as a ledger board as the house footing would get in the way. I think I might assemble the joists and rim board a foot away from the house and slide/tap it over the beams towards the house into its final position.
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:16 PM   #8
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"AtlRemodeling" and "GBAR" are correct in their statements. I was trying to prevent a very long post, although it seemed to get longer. My wording does tend to say that I dig a hole, place a post and pour concrete, but this is far from what I do. I use either a 24" square or round footing no less than 12" deep, poured at least two days before setting post. This is overkill in the three GA. counties that I work in, but it's my preference. GBAR-I will read the link you posted as I can always learn more. Thanks for the info, David
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Old 12-15-2009, 06:20 PM   #9
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Free Standing deck details


Try checking with Deck-Lok, their brackets might work.

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