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-   -   Framing Tray Ceiling to Match Existing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/framing-tray-ceiling-match-existing-114823/)

1MoreProject 08-21-2011 06:17 PM

Framing Tray Ceiling to Match Existing
 
2 Attachment(s)
I have a large room that I will be subdividing with a partition wall. The wall itself will be 2X4's staggered on 2X6 plates for noise reduction. The ceiling of this room has two trays around it's perimeter. From the wall, there is an outer tray with a 2" step down from the inner tray, and the inner tray is a 1.5 inch step down from the ceiling. The outer tray is 14 inches wide and the inner is 8 inches wide. The attached image lays out the room and ceiling trays in black, with the added partition and trays in red.

CeilingTrays copy.jpg

I'm looking for suggestions on framing the partition to ceiling and tray area. I've come up with one method, in the attached file:

NewWallDetails2.jpg

The view in this attachment is parallel to the new partition, looking at only the top portion of the stud, and then ceiling plates, etc. Does this seem structurally sound / reasonable?

Thanks in advance.

AGWhitehouse 08-22-2011 09:29 AM

Your detail looks like a good start. I would carry the wall up full height and add a 2x4 to the side to support the gwb at the lower soffit. Maybe consider 5/4 blocking in lieu of 2x on the top so you won't have to remove the old ceiling. You could use 1/2" wood strips (sold at box stores) for the lower soffit blocking instead of having the "green" sheetrock. There also is no need to run the "green" gwb through the main wall. Run the wall full height and provide a 2x block on each side to suppor the "yellow" gwb.

I think that with the right blocking selection you could eliminate the need for demolition to the "red" gwb and eliminate the need for the "green" gwb.

1MoreProject 08-23-2011 12:03 AM

I like your suggestions and they've helped me take a whole different look at this. A few questions to ensure I've got it right...

Use 5/4 for the 1.5 soffit, and just nail up through the existing ceiling gwb to secure it in place.

Use 5/4 plus a 2X with 1/2 strip added to complete the blocking for the 2" soffit.

The green gwb was actually intended to be OSB, but you're absolutely right, no need to bring it through the entire wall in sheet arrangement. In fact, that would probably just act like a sound collecting diaphragm on one side, and transmit the sound across to the other side, too. Actually I could just rip a strip of 1/2 OSB to match the 2X blocking.

Do you think the wall top plate can be nailed up through the ceiling gwb, too, or should I remove just that strip of ceiling so that the top plate has a solid purchase on the trusses above?

Thanks again.

AGWhitehouse 08-23-2011 11:11 AM

I think you can nail the top plate right through the gwb. it's not load bearing, it'll save you the dirty job of hacking it all out, and ensure an air barrier if this is against the attic space.

SteelToes 08-23-2011 12:05 PM

Well i don't think you got this planned out right.

Your outer tray is a 2" step down from the inner tray- which means that outer tray was installed afterwards over the 1/2 gypsum.

If you where to build the way you got it sketched up your outer tray would end up being 1.5" down from the inner tray...which is not installed over the 1/2 gypsum.

AGWhitehouse 08-23-2011 03:12 PM

Ah, ha! I had it backwards.

Put the 2x4 for the upper soffit piece, and the 5/4 for the lower piece (with the 1/2" osb spacer still).

1MoreProject 08-24-2011 12:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Okay, what do you all think of this approach. 5/4 blocking, nailed direct on/through the ceiling provides the first, 1.5" step. The new GWB layer for the first tray is carried through to the next tray's 5/4 and 2x4 blocking, to provide the total of 2" for the next step down. I'm kind of thinking of dealing with the trouble of cutting the ceiling (yes, attic above) in order to provide better sound isolation from one side to the other. 1/2" OSB provides the necessary 1/2" needed due to cutting out the ceiling.

http://www.diychatroom.com/images/attach/jpg.gif

Comments?

Thanks

AGWhitehouse 08-24-2011 07:12 AM

Switch the 5/4 and 2x4's to gain the right dimensions per your original post and steel toes observation. That change will give you a 2" upper drop and an 1-1/2" lower drop to the match the existing.

The top of wall is over-framed and expensive. You only need a single 2x6 top plate and (1) 2x4 on each side of the wall as a nailer for your sheetrock. This added "void" will give you more space for insulation for sound attenuation.

1MoreProject 08-24-2011 11:51 PM

I'm not sure where exactly I may have led you guys astray, but I think I have my blocking correct. From the main ceiling area, the first tray steps down 1.5, and the second tray steps down another 2".

Thanks for the suggestions.

Now it occurs to me I've got to put some thought into how to complete the ends of the partition wall, that is, the top plate area, of each end where it will interface with the existing ceiling trays. I dug through some insulation and looked at the ceiling from above: the inner, 1.5 step down was accomplished with a 1.5 x 1.5" length of wood, and the outer 2.0 step down with two 2X4's in vertical orientation.

AGWhitehouse 08-26-2011 03:41 PM

I misread the OP after the above comment was made and thought the upper drop was 2", not 1.5". So you didn't lead me astray, I did. So here's what I've concluded thus far:


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