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-   -   framing a shower stall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/framing-shower-stall-100651/)

n2learning 04-05-2011 06:26 PM

framing a shower stall
 
When framing a wall next to a shower stall, should the wall be flush with the edge of the shower base
or should there be some distance so the shower base it tucked in?
I haven't decided if I am going to use a shower curtain or a door.
Would this make a difference?

wall to be flush with shower base (keeping room for drywall and possibly tile)
http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/u...ming/flush.jpg

wall beyond the shower base
http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/u...raming/out.jpg

pros or cons for both methods would be helpful.
Thanks,
DK

12penny 04-05-2011 06:50 PM

....whats goin on the walls?

n2learning 04-05-2011 11:05 PM

Tile over cement board in the shower enclosure.
I may tile half way up the wall on the rest of the walls in the bathroom.

12penny 04-06-2011 07:48 AM

Build it long. Easier to get backer, drywall and corner bead on it. You may be able to make it long enough to tile to the corner with full tiles. Depends on how big your tiles are.

Willie T 04-06-2011 09:00 AM

Looks much nicer longer. Holding it short makes it look like you made a mistake when ordering a shower base to fit a pre-existing wall... even if you happen to hit the length just right.

n2learning 04-06-2011 09:26 AM

I made such a rookie mistake.

I can only go out about an inch to keep within the required distance from the center of the toilet flange to the wall. I believe it's 15 inches.

Thanks for the input.

DK

12penny 04-06-2011 12:07 PM

...no big deal. Doesnt look like anythings framed up yet. Can you move the base back some or are you as far as you can go?

n2learning 04-06-2011 10:05 PM

The shower drain is already cemented in so I can't move the base back. (FYI: the shower pan has not been set)

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/u...showerbase.jpg


Because I didn't do the best measuring, do I need to add furring strips to the 2x4's so the cement board will be snug and tight?
It might be better if I used 2x6's on this wall instead of 2x4's. There will still be a gap but not as much if I stay with 2x4s.
Is there a different option other than adding furring strips?

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/u...g/sidewall.jpg


On another note, I originally had this measured for a 28" door, however I just read that a 30" door is the required minimum for a basement bathroom.
How much room should I allow for the door frame if I am going to put in a 30" door?

http://i629.photobucket.com/albums/u...aming/door.jpg

I do appreciate the help. This my first "big" DIY project.

firehawkmph 04-06-2011 11:47 PM

N2,
32" on the rough opening width for your door, 2" + the door width. 82 1/2" for the height.
Mike Hawkins:)

12penny 04-07-2011 07:53 AM

can that framing be removed? Doesnt look fastened to the floor.

n2learning 04-07-2011 08:34 AM

The framing has not been fastened. Will be putting up the top plates soon.

It's hard to tell from the pics, but concrete had to be poured to have an even bathroom floor. I live in an old home that has a dip in the basement floor.

I just assumed the sole plates will go on the edge of the perimeter. Once drywall is put up on the outside of the walls I will add some molding to the bottom so the new concrete isn't visible.

*Thanks for the tip on the door frame*


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