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Old 06-05-2012, 01:38 AM   #16
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Framing Question adding door to stud wall with cross bracing


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Originally Posted by cortell View Post
Is it possible the T1-11 is not original? I would expect 5/8" T1-11 to provide enough shear strength. My theory is that the let-in bracing was at one point the only thing making that wall a shear wall. Then the siding was replaced with T1-11, which made the let-in bracing obsolete and relatively pointless (much like, say, a casing nail where there's already a common nail). Of course this is just a guess. What concerns me is the proximity of the proposed opening to the end of the wall. The ends are critical areas in shear walls. You really should consult with a professional in your area for a thorough evaluation and recommendation.

The T1-11 is original on the exterior.

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Old 06-05-2012, 01:40 AM   #17
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Framing Question adding door to stud wall with cross bracing


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What is the purpose behind the 4x6 beams so close to the floor?

Andy.
I am not exactly sure but my first thought was that this was a carport before I added the garage door and that the raised beams would make washing the carport out with water would be my only guess.
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:42 AM   #18
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Framing Question adding door to stud wall with cross bracing


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What concerns me is the proximity of the proposed opening to the end of the wall.
Exactly; if the opening is to be near the end of the wall, no amount of extra bracing or sheathing will compensate and maintain it as a shear wall. This is why I said in my original post that both the size and position of the opening are important factors.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:24 AM   #19
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Framing Question adding door to stud wall with cross bracing


The elevated side framing suggests "letting the water out" as said, at least to me. When I visited there in '66, it would drop 1/2" of water in less than 10 minutes time..... the flash flood would jet across the streets into the open shops and out because the walls had gaps next to the ground for that reason. I suspect the let-in was for the framers after framing the wall on the slab without siding, holding it square to be plumb after lifting/standing it in place.

The T1-11 is structural, stand-alone without bracing, let-ins, or otherwise. Very popular around here in the early '70's when I started framing. Count the number of face plugs- 6 or less, I'm guessing if it's older material; http://www.joneswholesale.com/produc...cts.htm#guides

You are in 105mph wind zone. I am more concerned that you are in a seismic zone where wall/roof anchorage to the slab is critical- and existing is inadequate, consult your local AHJ; http://publicecodes.citation.com/ico...001_par004.htm

Be sure to add bearing directly under the 4x16 beam to slab.

Gary

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