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Old 02-03-2012, 09:52 PM   #1
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Framing question


I'm refinishing my basement. When I frame the walls I'm planning on using 8 foot 2x4 base and top plates and 16 inch on center. Therefore every 8 feet I'll have 2 2x4 right next to each other. Is there a better way to do it? Im going to outsource the drywall and would like to get it close to right. Thanks.

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Old 02-03-2012, 09:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by ltlbvr
I'm refinishing my basement. When I frame the walls I'm planning on using 8 foot 2x4 base and top plates and 16 inch on center. Therefore every 8 feet I'll have 2 2x4 right next to each other. Is there a better way to do it? Im going to outsource the drywall and would like to get it close to right. Thanks.
There's no need to ever do that. Drywall always sits half way on the single stud. You can do it if it makes you feel like you need too...but you don't.

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Old 02-03-2012, 10:22 PM   #3
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Framing question


i'd go for longer top and bottom plates like 12 footers.. what i do is stager the joint so there not in the same spot, no real point to it just my preference, i make the joint so it sits in the middle of a joist so i cap it with a 2*4 which is about 30 1/2'' and the stud goes on top of the center of that if that makes any sense to you..
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Old 02-03-2012, 10:31 PM   #4
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Framing question


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Originally Posted by notme76
i'd go for longer top and bottom plates like 12 footers.. what i do is stager the joint so there not in the same spot, no real point to it just my preference, i make the joint so it sits in the middle of a joist so i cap it with a 2*4 which is about 30 1/2'' and the stud goes on top of the center of that if that makes any sense to you..
what?
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:28 PM   #5
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Framing question


Use as long of plates as you can that work out with 16" centers, no need for double stud. Maybe this pic will help.
http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...r_basement.jpg
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Old 02-03-2012, 11:48 PM   #6
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Oh...k.
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:42 AM   #7
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Framing question


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Originally Posted by ltlbvr View Post
I'm refinishing my basement. When I frame the walls I'm planning on using 8 foot 2x4 base and top plates and 16 inch on center. Therefore every 8 feet I'll have 2 2x4 right next to each other. Is there a better way to do it? Im going to outsource the drywall and would like to get it close to right. Thanks.
Nothing wrong with your plan, just a wee wasteful, but probably easier for you.
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:02 AM   #8
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Framing question


here is how real framers do layout.
Start with marking 3/4 on the layout stud. Then set your tape on the line and make the 16" centers. By doing so you will end up so the stud at the end is centered half on and half of the end of your plate. This will eliminate the extra stud.

Most of the time we also use longer stop as plates. Not necessary in your situation, but we do to eliminate joints which will be the weak point in the wall

hope this helps.
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Old 02-04-2012, 09:08 AM   #9
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Framing question


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Originally Posted by framer52
here is how real framers do layout.
Start with marking 3/4 on the layout stud. Then set your tape on the line and make the 16" centers. By doing so you will end up so the stud at the end is centered half on and half of the end of your plate. This will eliminate the extra stud.

Most of the time we also use longer stop as plates. Not necessary in your situation, but we do to eliminate joints which will be the weak point in the wall

hope this helps.
Real framers pull 15-1/4" and go, 31-1/4" and go...so you only need to hook the beginning of the wall once, instead of hooking some mark you made.
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Old 02-04-2012, 11:47 AM   #10
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Framing question


Quicker yet is to make one line across both plates laying side by side,with tape hooked on end, at the 16", 32", etc. distance with a pencil. The line is center of stud, no squared lines, no "X"'s, very fast since much of the layout is repetitive in production framing.

As you are building a partition wall, non-bearing, the studs can be 2x3 at 24" on center (as the plates), though I would never use those. Use a sill sealer under the required p.t. bottom plate for a thermal/air/capillary break; http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/...-building-code Unless you know for sure there is a plastic vapor barrier under the concrete.

Use foamboard inside unless already installed outside below grade for thermal savings: http://www.quadlock.com/technical_li...Insulation.pdf
Remember to fire-block the frame wall as per code. Get a permit for the paper trail for H.O.Insurance carrier if ever a future claim and when time to sell.

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Old 02-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #11
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Framing question


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Originally Posted by titanoman View Post
Real framers pull 15-1/4" and go, 31-1/4" and go...so you only need to hook the beginning of the wall once, instead of hooking some mark you made.
Yep, but real framers would not be asking this simple question, hence the simple way to do it.
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:04 PM   #12
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Framing question


PT bottom plate, right?~
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:31 PM   #13
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Framing question


Quote:
Originally Posted by framer52
here is how real framers do layout.
Start with marking 3/4 on the layout stud. Then set your tape on the line and make the 16" centers. By doing so you will end up so the stud at the end is centered half on and half of the end of your plate. This will eliminate the extra stud.

Most of the time we also use longer stop as plates. Not necessary in your situation, but we do to eliminate joints which will be the weak point in the wall

hope this helps.
Maybe where your from. I've never heard of such a thing. The Real Framers where in from just hook the tape and mark 15-1/4....31-1/4...47-1/4....so simple....was taught that first day on the job...framing 101...
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Old 02-04-2012, 01:42 PM   #14
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Framing question


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Maybe where your from. I've never heard of such a thing. The Real Framers where in from just hook the tape and mark 15-1/4....31-1/4...47-1/4....so simple....was taught that first day on the job...framing 101...

Joe, I have only taught 40+ guys how to layout and it seems to be the easiest fot the beginners to r. Yes, I do it your way and eventually teach that to beginners. Should have been clearer in my earlier response.

OK?
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Old 02-04-2012, 02:41 PM   #15
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Joe, I have only taught 40+ guys how to layout and it seems to be the easiest fot the beginners to r. Yes, I do it your way and eventually teach that to beginners. Should have been clearer in my earlier response.

OK?
No problem. I always taught the 15-1/4"...31-1/4"...47-1/4" mark and then draw the 1-1/2" lines representing the studs in relationship to how the sheathing lands in the center of the stud.

Then I draw it staring out with a 16" mark then go 32"...48"....and draw the 1-1/2" marks representing the studs and show them how the 48" mark doesn't land in the center. The drawings always help.

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