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Old 04-06-2012, 09:08 AM   #16
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Framing over cinder block


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Originally Posted by cortell View Post
Technically speaking, it's unlikely you have actual "cinder" blocks, BTW. You probably have concrete blocks. They looks the same but have very different density. Cinder blocks are made of ash are thus considerably lighter and less likely to be used to, say, hold up a house. This has no bearing on your question, but I couldn't help throw in that bit of info.
Quite true. But I once owned a house, built in 1959, that had actual cinder block walls. Didn't look any different, but when I drilled into it to install some anchors, all the drilling dust was black.

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Old 04-06-2012, 05:26 PM   #17
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Framing over cinder block


I once got my hands on some nice cinder blocks. They were Cinderella's.
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Old 04-07-2012, 06:09 AM   #18
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Framing over cinder block


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Ah.. 'pressure treated'... got it Good to know about the treated lumber.

From that image, it looks like NONE of the studs are attached to the block. That makes me wonder how it will really hold anything.

Yeah, I plan to put electrical boxes in the new walls too. The items I plan to hang range from my bicycles to a wheel barrow, ladder, etc. I have no way to hang them now without having to punch holes in the block with TapCons and short pieces of wood.

What would be the best approach to tackle the finished ceiling? What other things must I do to make sure this is done properly?
No need to cut the ceiling. Find the joists and nail the top plate to them through the drywall.

The frame you are putting in is not load bearing so it does not need to "hold" anything. Providing you nail it to the joists and fix it to the slab it won't go any where and you could mount bikes, ladders or whatever from it.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:51 PM   #19
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Framing over cinder block


Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. My local store doesn't carry Ramset but has this instead. I'm assuming this is the equivalent but wanted to confirm that from the more experienced users here.

Should I be concerned about driving a fastener into my garage floor so close to the edge? I fear it might crack since it's so close.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:59 PM   #20
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Framing over cinder block


Quote:
Originally Posted by SingleGuy
Thanks for all the replies so far everyone. My local store doesn't carry Ramset but has this instead. I'm assuming this is the equivalent but wanted to confirm that from the more experienced users here.

Should I be concerned about driving a fastener into my garage floor so close to the edge? I fear it might crack since it's so close.
That is the manual ramset. Nail in the end,put the load in (22) and hit it with a hammer.
Wear ear& eye protection!
There is a chance for it to crack if you are close to the slab edge.
The web site will tell you how to test the surface to see if the nails will go through and what load to use.
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Old 04-14-2012, 08:40 PM   #21
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Framing over cinder block


Well, I got around to the wall. Here are some pics so far. Thanks everyone for the help so far!

I decided not to use any foam insulation on this wall based on some discussions I've had with several people. That saved me 60 bucks and wasn't necessary for this particular wall.

More pics to follow.

Goodbye plain block wall:


Framing... It's nailed every 12 inches at the top and has studs 24" on center. I built it out further than necessary so I can make tiny shelves at the very end. (Second pic)



The RamSet didn't work as well as I expected. Here's one that went in properly:


Here's one that didn't go in all the way. On average, 1/2 of the shells didn't fire off when struck. I was disappointed in this tool:


I bought a brand new Porter Cable FC350A framing nail gun for this project. It's an awesome tool but didn't toenail very well for me. The depth was set at max and my compressor was at the max for the gun:


Overall, the framing went a LOT smoother than I ever expected it to. I can't wait to get the thing finished and start getting my stuff better organized :D
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Old 04-15-2012, 01:45 AM   #22
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Framing over cinder block


is that an existing drywall ceiling? if so, you shouldn't need any additional vertical fireblocking for the gap between the stud wall and the block wall. if the wall is less than 10' wide, you won't need any horizontal blocking either.
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Old 04-15-2012, 02:03 AM   #23
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Framing over cinder block


That does not look like a treated bottom plate (on my phone anyway)I hope you put sill gasket under it.
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Old 04-15-2012, 03:45 AM   #24
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Framing over cinder block


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That does not look like a treated bottom plate (on my phone anyway)I hope you put sill gasket under it.
A sill gasket is a good idea, but if my eyes aren't deceiving me, I think you can see the vapour barrier between the wall and the slab in the last 2 pics.
As for not using the foam, I'm assuming you're just hanging drywall and not heating this space?
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:55 AM   #25
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Framing over cinder block


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is that an existing drywall ceiling? if so, you shouldn't need any additional vertical fireblocking for the gap between the stud wall and the block wall. if the wall is less than 10' wide, you won't need any horizontal blocking either.
Yep. That ceiling is drywall and already there. Thanks
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Old 04-15-2012, 07:58 AM   #26
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Framing over cinder block


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That does not look like a treated bottom plate (on my phone anyway)I hope you put sill gasket under it.
I panicked when I saw that pic last night myself. I checked it and it is the treated 2x4 I thought I'd gotten my boards mixed up but it's right.

I would've been ticked off at myself if I had to tear it apart lol

Last edited by SingleGuy; 04-15-2012 at 08:01 AM. Reason: Grammar
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Old 04-16-2012, 10:52 PM   #27
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Framing over cinder block


Got more progress tonight. I put three sheets of 1/4" plywood up and one full sheet of pegboard. I used Liquid Nails and paneling nails to hang the plywood. The peg board was put up with wood screws. You can see the screws in the pegboard and think I'll put in more. I reinforced the pegboard by putting a horizontal 2x4 in the center of the vertical studs and a 1/2" strip on the back of the pegboard then screwed the center of the pegboard into the horizontal stud. This keeps the center from flopping around.



The 3/4" oak plywood will be used for framing and rails.


The screw that is in the center of the pegboard. I have a picture of the backside but it's on my phone and it's dead


I'm too tired after moving that oak and lifting all those sheets but I'll get a picture of the wall with the oak out of the way soon

Ps... ignore the gaping hole in the ceiling. That's damage from the previous owner and it's on the todo list.
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Old 04-25-2012, 10:36 PM   #28
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Framing over cinder block


Finally got the time to cut the oak plywood.

These will be the rails. 3 1/2" oak plywood


Gonna have a frame around the wall with 1 1/2" oak plywood


I used a MinWax stain called Provincial. It's on a little darker on the smaller pieces because I used a foam brush on them and an old t-shirt on the rails.

Can anyone give me some advice on what the best tecnique is to stain the cut portions / the endgrain? It soaks in too dark for my taste.

I bought this next stain to do the entire wall so there'd be a nice contrast but I've decided to just leave it bare because I've been reading that the particular plywood used doesn't take stain too well ( Sandeply ). Of course I'll be putting on a coat or two of clear satin poly so that should darken it up nicely.

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Old 05-02-2012, 08:45 PM   #29
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Decided to just leave the wall bare and let it darken up with the poly.

So far I have four of the rails up


One of the spacer blocks fell and one end fell slightly. Can someone give me advice on how to slightly even this up? I figure putting some wood putty and leveling it up some should do the trick


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