Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 09-10-2013, 09:31 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 0
Share |
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


I'm gearing up to replace the load center in our 1965 house, and am contemplating methods for installing the new panel, and framing has become a bit of an issue.

Currently, the load center is surface-mounted in what used to be the garage, which was converted to living space some time in the mid 70's. The PO constructed some haphazard closet during the conversion that hid the panel, but violated every bit of code regarding load center access, and several laws of common sense. Anyway, the "closet" has been demolished now in preparation for replacing the load center. Now that I can finally see what I'm dealing with, it's time to plan this out.

Obviously, this is a load bearing wall. It's also between a corner and the windows which occupy the space that formerly held garage doors. The real problem is that the available stud space is about 1-1/4" shy of being able to hold the typical 14-1/2" wide flush mount panel. I could simply build out the wall with studs to hold the new box, but cosmetically, that leaves a lot to be desired.

I've already burned up half of my brain cells trying to find out if any such thing as a narrower 200A load center was available, with zero results.

I can't relocate the service entrance without needing to replace vinyl siding that has not been available since the early 90's, nevermind the amount of money that the utility company would extract from my emaciated wallet for the new overhead drop.

Before I resign myself to building an ugly bump-out on the wall to enable me to flush mount the new panel, I thought I would see if anyone had any other great thoughts. I don't really want to bring in an engineer, but if there is some possibility of creating the required stud space without needing the tear down siding and deal with the subsequent three ring circus that would follow, then I would be open to writing a check for someone with the smarts to give me the solution on paper. Before I get to that point, I thought I would see if anyone here could provide some inspiration.
Attached Thumbnails
Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement-2013-09-10-05.54.45.jpg   Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement-2013-09-10-05.53.17.jpg  

KAdams4458 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 10:31 AM   #2
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 1,248
Rewards Points: 8
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


Well first off you need a WA L&I Electrical permit, and you will have to get a building permit too because of the need for the electrical permit. Your solution is simple you can move one stud over to were you need to be so you can place the load center. a load bearing wall can be 24" OC even with 2x4"s so just knock one out move it over to were you need it to be and voila problem solved. Just get that L&I Permit.

Nailbags is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 12:25 PM   #3
I have gas!
 
Clutchcargo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 1,774
Rewards Points: 14
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


Is that a sub-panel?
__________________
I tear things down and build them up.
Clutchcargo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 02:30 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
Well first off you need a WA L&I Electrical permit, and you will have to get a building permit too because of the need for the electrical permit. Your solution is simple you can move one stud over to were you need to be so you can place the load center. a load bearing wall can be 24" OC even with 2x4"s so just knock one out move it over to were you need it to be and voila problem solved. Just get that L&I Permit.

I've had the electrical permit for two weeks already, but moving a stud over isn't possible. The two on the right of the cavity are the jack and king studs for the header over the window, and the three on the left are... I don't even know what you call it. I have no idea of one of those can be removed safely, or altered with some other sort of support like a fabricated steel plate. This is why I am looking for inspiration that may lead me to consulting an engineer.

The third stud on the left side of the cavity isn't clearly visible in the pictures. It's behind the wall on the left, and only two are visible, but the third one is there, I promise. It's basically a 3-stud corner, but it's not really a corner, it's just where the garage wall and lower elevation foundation meet the house wall and its higher elevation foundation. To make it really interesting, the short wall you see jutting out from the left side in the pictures is also a load bearing wall.

I have no idea why they build some things the way they do, but I'm guessing they had a reason. Ha!

Last edited by KAdams4458; 09-10-2013 at 02:40 PM.
KAdams4458 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 02:32 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by Clutchcargo View Post
Is that a sub-panel?
Nope. That's the only distribution point in the house. It's back to back with the meter base outside.
KAdams4458 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #6
"You can do anything"-Mom
 
brockmiera's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 724
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


It looks to me that you could do without that extra stud in the corner. Its usually that way to have space to nail drywall from both directions but you'll have that even if you remove the extra stud there.
brockmiera is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2013, 06:21 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Snohomish, WA
Posts: 125
Rewards Points: 0
Default

Framing issue w/load bearing wall and load center replacement


Quote:
Originally Posted by brockmiera View Post
It looks to me that you could do without that extra stud in the corner. Its usually that way to have space to nail drywall from both directions but you'll have that even if you remove the extra stud there.
This is conceivable. I looked above, and there are no top plate joints over this short section of wall. Exactly one of the rafter and ceiling joists lands on it, and the rest all land above the header over the windows, so just deleting a stud seems like it would work.

KAdams4458 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Question regarding new load center on cinder block wall. chris_b Electrical 11 02-28-2013 03:56 PM
Load Bearing Wall Issue? iggy913 Building & Construction 1 07-28-2010 06:45 PM
creating door in possible load bearing wall acerunner Building & Construction 6 07-05-2010 04:33 PM
Wall - LOAD BEARING: How to Move? user49172 Building & Construction 1 03-11-2009 04:48 PM
framing, expanding wall opening wall - load bearing? nave Remodeling 5 01-23-2008 03:44 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.