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-   -   Framing and Drywall questions (http://www.diychatroom.com/f19/framing-drywall-questions-1249/)

haysdb 11-03-2005 10:44 PM

Framing and Drywall questions
 
FRAMING

When framing basement interior walls, when a wall runs parallel to and between the trusses, what "height" should the wall be when the height of the truss varies from one end of the wall to the other? The height of the highest point or the height of the lowest point?

DRYWALL

I'm hanging drywall in a garage with near 12' ceilings. Should I hang the rock vertically or horizontally? Hanging it vertically, I will have no butt joints, which will be nice. But if not all of the studs are plumb and straight, I'm concerned that my drywall edges will not line up on the middles of all the studs. That could be a mess. Hanging the rock horizontally would minimize that problem since only 4' sections have to be plumb and straight.

When hanging drywall, the phrase "nail the perimeter, screw the field" jumps to mind. But in other places I have read to start in the center and work out. Starting in the center seems problematic since you don't yet know exactly where the studs are. Attaching the edges first, you can then snap chalk-lines. I guess this applies mostly to drywall laid vertically. It's probably not much of a problem with drywall hung horizontally. ???

K2eoj 11-03-2005 11:19 PM

Framing- I block between the joist, nail my bottom plate down and nail my top plate to the blocks ,( in the correct place). Then I cut each stud to fit and toe nail them in. I've heard for 25 years that my way is the slow way but I havn't seen anyone do it any faster and i've had alot of framers working for us. <P>

Don't snap lines all over your board the chalk is a mess to cover up and can blead through. If you have to have lines use a light pencil mark and a straight edge. <P>


finishing stand-ups is nice but it sounds like you might have problems. You could add a nailer here and there but it might be better to go horizontal and deal with the butts.<P>


That's my opinion on that subject but of course there are other ways to do things. HS

haysdb 11-04-2005 12:25 AM

I'm building my walls on the floor then standing them up, nailing the base plate along my chalk-line, then using a level to get the wall plumb and square. This works great when going perpendicular to the trusses where I don't need a nailer at the top, but when running parallel to a truss, I have to add a nailer along the top plate, and if the top of my wall is a little short or tall anywhere, the nailer will likewise be low or high.

You've actually provided the answer, even though I'm building my walls differently than you - I should install blocking between the trusses rather than a 2x4 nailer attached to the top of my stud wall. That way my nailers are all at the same level as the bottom of the trusses. I just need to make sure these walls are no higher than the bottom of the trusses, but I'm already doing that, by finding the low spot and cutting all my studs to that length.

As for the garage drywall, I may TRY standing the sheets vertically, or maybe do a "dry run" with a 4' piece of scrap, and just walk it around the room and see if my studs are, by some miracle, all on 4' centers. If they aren't, then I'll hang the rock horizontally.

By the way, does the rock need to be hung from the top down? Why would bottom up be bad? Will a "butt joint" at the top be that much of a problem to mud?

jproffer 11-04-2005 02:49 AM

How wide and how tall are the walls you're rocking? If 12 or less wide(which is doubtful for a garage) and 9 or less high, you can get it with 2 sheets horizontal with no butt joints. Even with butt joints, I hang horizontal because it's easier finishing a couple butt joints to the floor and long seams across at 4 or 4.5 ft. high, than it is finishing every seam to the floor.

Drywall is stronger when hung horizontally, but that doesn't mean vertical is a cardinal sin, just not quite as strong.

haysdb 11-04-2005 03:20 AM

The walls are just short of 12' high. One side is 25' long, the other is 33' long. Strength shouldn't be too big of an issue as (I would expect) the sheathing and siding should make the walls pretty strong even without any drywall. OTOH, these are some pretty big walls, so strength actually might be a consideration.

jproffer 11-04-2005 07:11 AM

The strength I was talking about was strength against it's own weight. It applies more to ceilings than walls. If you hang rock parallel to the joists on the ceiling, it's more likely to sag than if you hang perpendicular.


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