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Old 12-30-2011, 06:52 PM   #1
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framing door opening under existing window header...


Long story short, we are putting a door in where we have an existing window. The window is 72" wide--the door is 42" x 94", so probably around 45" rough opening. No second floor above.

I'm looking for suggestions on how to frame the opening, attaching to the existing header.

Clearly toe-nailing and doubling up the studs would work, but I'm concerned because I won't have the benefit of a solid king stud from bottom to top plate for rigidity. (Door frame will go right to the bottom of the header, though.)

I want to make sure that I have a very solid wall for attaching my big, heavy new door.

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Old 12-30-2011, 08:20 PM   #2
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framing door opening under existing window header...


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The window is 72" wide--the door is 42" x 94...
That's a tall door.
How high is the window you have now?

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Old 12-30-2011, 11:17 PM   #3
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framing door opening under existing window header...


making the existing rough opening narrower isnt a big deal,, my question is where did you find such a tall door. are you sure your opening isnt 84" as opposed to 94"

if it actually is 94" tall and your ceiling is only 8' your going to have to have a flush header which is up on top of the top plate which may require hanging flooor joists off of it. this does get done but is common place for regular doors in basement additions where headroom is a concern.. if this is your situation you may want to consult a local contractor or engineer to spec' something for you which will work in such a situation
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Old 12-31-2011, 06:15 AM   #4
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framing door opening under existing window header...


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Originally Posted by paredown View Post
(Door frame will go right to the bottom of the header, though.)
All you need is to hold your new studs with metal angles instead of toenails.

http://www.google.com/imgres?q=simps...:429,r:18,s:46
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:30 PM   #5
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framing door opening under existing window header...


Thanks all. The windows are about 40" high.

Ceilings are around 9' and change--a contemporary look with some sections post and beam, and other rooms finished with wood trim above the window (about the same width as the headers) to mimic beams.

All the other doors are full height as well, so the frame is tight under either a beam or the trim (in fact I had to notch one section of the trim where the PO had replaced a slider --I think he put in one made for a stock 96" rough opening so actually too big--and did not refit the trim properly.)

In this case, the door is a custom Jeld-Wen that was a return, and I have a door guy building a frame for me--we'll confirm exact height once I have the wall open--and the door can be trimmed if we need to before he mounts it. The fake beam trim will no longer be continuous (the other half of the window will be on the other side of a new wall separating entry hall where the door will be from new sitting room/office) so we can fudge that was well if need be.

I like the idea of brackets--any suggestion about how long a leg to use? And I'm assuming I should use screws for these.

Edit to add: just saw abracaboom included a link--but it seems to be for a product that would not work, but I did bang around and found the Simpson A34 framing angle that looks like it would be suitable

And I guess I should double up the 2x, as if I had jack/king stud?

My other concern is the CMU foundation--I assume that I may have to parge the area under what will be the new threshold?

Last edited by paredown; 12-31-2011 at 01:42 PM.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:36 PM   #6
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framing door opening under existing window header...


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Originally Posted by paredown View Post
The windows are about 40" high.
Ceilings are around 9' and change
How far above the floor do the windows end?

In this case, the door is a custom Jeld-Wen that was a return,
So it actually is 94" high?
After you strip the GWB or plaster off that wall you'll see for sure...
but I suspect you'll have to rebuild the header (higher than it is now) at the same time you narrow up the opening.

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My other concern is the CMU foundation--I assume that I may have to parge the area under what will be the new threshold?
Cross that bridge when you get to it too.
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Old 12-31-2011, 01:52 PM   #7
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framing door opening under existing window header...


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Originally Posted by TarheelTerp View Post
After you strip the GWB or plaster off that wall you'll see for sure...
but I suspect you'll have to rebuild the header (higher than it is now) at the same time you narrow up the opening.
Confirmed from the invoice--door is 42x94!

I'm hoping that we have enough clearance--I get about 95 1/2" from finished floor to where I think the top of the window frame is (they are storefront-style aluminum, so fairly easy to see.) And there may be a little clearance above that.

I had to replace one rotten header in a different section of the house--and there was a little clearance along the top.

Having done one (temporary wall and all) I really hope I can get away without doing another, especially since this one is in good shape, whereas the other one was so rotten I could take a lot of it out with a short sledge and sawzall and then deal with the nails on the ends.

Last edited by paredown; 12-31-2011 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 01-01-2012, 08:11 AM   #8
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framing door opening under existing window header...


Yeah, you find wonderful things when you open up walls.
The bracket is a good idea. Most use special nails and not screws, not sure on yours so ask dealer.
Or - You could toe nail a double into place and use a block back to the next stud with the new stud nailed into the block.

There is a method of framing where all studs are toe-nailed. So toe-nailing is not a problem.
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Old 02-04-2012, 08:59 AM   #9
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framing door opening under existing window header...


An update...opening finished--RO framed for 96 1/2" including 1/2" allowance for a threshold strip. Original header left in place--door will be tight to header.

Of course it was not straightforward--the double 2x post between the two windows was pretty wonky (too much load or water--not sure), so I did a temporary on the left of the original post, took out the second window (the one that will go back in), replaced the window plate and one prop, replaced the double 2x in the center of the span, and then put in an adjoining double 2x for the hinge side stub wall for the door to hang. I used the brackets on the window side top (since I have a bit of height to play with)--and am waiting for the door guy to see if he objects to adding them on all four corners of the inside of the door frame...

Now the puzzle is finishing the outside--the existing slate/flashing over the edge of the subfloor/foundation block pretty much failed, so I need to re-flash before re-installing the siding.

Block to be parged today. Flashing too, if I can figure it out, Gotta think about the finished surface of the stoop that will be poured where the pallet is sitting.

Door guy comes on Monday!
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Last edited by paredown; 02-04-2012 at 09:09 AM.
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Old 02-23-2012, 07:24 AM   #10
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framing door opening under existing window header...


Door in--a tight fit, due to some miscommunication between me and the door guy.

A nice bonus--although we thought it would be the case, it was nice that the line of the bottom lites lines up nicely with the existing window that we had to reuse (no budget yet for new ones).

Thanks to all who added their $.02.
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