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Old 11-15-2007, 01:51 PM   #1
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Framing detail question


We are looking to replace and interior load bearing wall with a beam.

On the interior load point, I would assume a typical King-Jack-Jack arangement.

However, on the exterior wall... that assembly would be thicker than the wall and would need to be bumped out a bit. Is there a framing detail that would allow for this wall to remain flush? i.e. king at the side and 2 jacks underneath or something like that? the span is almost 10' with 2-9" LVL's so my understanding is that a King and a single jack would not be sufficient.

Your feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,

Bernie

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Old 11-15-2007, 05:03 PM   #2
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Framing detail question


hi Bernie,

i am thinking your exterior wall is 2x4 construction seeing that a KJJ config will not fit.

If you are wanting to create a flush beam then i suggest you sit the beam on top of the dbl top plate on the interior wall and and exterior wall.

on the exterior wall just add framing studs under the beam, below the dbl top plate(sit them in wall just like stud would be in wall) prefered method would be to assemble the posts then insert into wall as trying to assemble in the wall you will encounter difficulty nailing due to adjacent studs. this also will give you an additional 1/2" of bearing on exterior wall post.

by sitting the beam on the dbl top plate this allows you to hang ceiling joists on the beam. giving you the "flush" ceiling from the room on the other side of the wall you removed.

be certain that you investigate your post down points under the beam as you will need to continue this process on the floor/s below to assure all loads are posted to a footing.

if not a flush beam then another option you have for the exterior wall would be to take the bay the beam falls into and create a header in the exterior wall like a typical window/door header would be. Top of that header is where the bottom of your beam will rest.

take some pics if you can. that would help lots!!

-Daryl

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Old 11-15-2007, 08:06 PM   #3
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Framing detail question


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Originally Posted by Daryl View Post
hi Bernie,

i am thinking your exterior wall is 2x4 construction seeing that a KJJ config will not fit.

If you are wanting to create a flush beam then i suggest you sit the beam on top of the dbl top plate on the interior wall and and exterior wall.

-Daryl
Daryl,

Thanks for the response!

I should have been more clear on the situation. The current load bearing wall supports the joists above on its top plate.

My new beam will have to go below the joists because I need to soffit out for some ductwork that runs perpendicular to the joists.

So, I can't (or dont want to) put the beam on the exterior top plate. But I would like to support at the exterior wall point (4 inches deep) without a KJJ

Can I simply do the JJ, put the beam above and sandwitch those Jacks and beam between two studs on the exterior wall?

As for support below, I assume I should be taking these all the way down to the foundation 'sill', correct?

Last edited by bernie; 11-15-2007 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 11-15-2007, 10:33 PM   #4
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Framing detail question


Daryl's second option should work. Build a header in an existing bay (space between two adjacent studs in the exterior wall) similar to a header for a door or window. The two 9" LVLs would rest on the top of this header. The LVLs would need to be notched so that the top of the LVLs is the same height as the exterior wall top plate. This notch is required in any scenario where the exterior wall is flush. Nail jack studs against two existing studs. Place a header (14 1/2" in length) on the top of the jack studs. You could use two jack studs on each side. Use a piece of 1/2" plywood as a spacer between the two header boards. This will give 3 1/2" bearing for the LVLs. Two jack studs alone give a 3" bearing.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:07 PM   #5
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Framing detail question


As soon as you notch a LVL you make it that much weaker. In other words you notch 3" out of a 9" you have essentially a 6" LVL.

I hate to say but in your case Steel I beam would be best.

You could get a 6" wide beam and get 4 trimmers under it and still get them flush in the wall.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:20 PM   #6
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Framing detail question


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Originally Posted by jiggyjack View Post
As soon as you notch a LVL you make it that much weaker.
this is definately true!

the other option you have to is build the header inside the bay and hang the LVL on it. If you need a 10' span on your beam order 12' LVL's and now you have your header for the bay. and it will be solid 3 1/2" no 1/2 spacer required to make the full bay depth. The more i think of it...you will have siding nails to contend w/ so perhaps a dimensional header w/ NO spacer might be better to gain you 1/2" of space in the depth of the bay. and this will also give you room for the nailing flange on the LVL hanger and no carving out the back of the drywall to prevent drywall bulging at the hanger.

yes this MUST be posted to foundation.

-Daryl

Last edited by Daryl; 11-16-2007 at 06:23 PM.
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Old 11-16-2007, 06:40 PM   #7
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Framing detail question


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Originally Posted by bernie View Post
Daryl,

Can I simply do the JJ, put the beam above and sandwitch those Jacks and beam between two studs on the exterior wall?

As for support below, I assume I should be taking these all the way down to the foundation 'sill', correct?

Yes, you can do that (JJ). But pack out the JJ with 1/2 ply so its the same width as the db lvl and then its best of you can get a K-stud next to it but if you can't, you need to do something to prevent the lvl from ever being able to twist off the JJ. And yes you need to solid block that load point to the foundation.
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Old 11-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #8
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Framing detail question


I went with the JJ on the exterior wall. There were two studs there the perfect width apart to slip them in once the wall was removed. I notched out for a single top plate at the top of the LVL. I understand the issue of cutting the LVL, but at that point, its pretty much only a shear load so i don't feel bad too about that 1 3/4".

Thanks for all the advice.

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