Framing basement exterior walls
I know this has been discussed but I haven't found a suitable answer (at least that makes complete sense to me).
I am building a room in an unfinished basement. Two walls will be exterior walls while the other two will be floating walls. When marking the floor plates I know I should start in the corner of the two exterior walls. My question is how do I marks the plates to ensure that the 1/2" drywall will land on the studs.
From what I have read. I should start with my first stud at the corner and then place a stud perpendicular to this to make a "california corner". From there my next stud sould be marked at 15 1/4" from the end of the plate and then 16" after that to ensure that the drywall sheet ends in the center of a stud.
This makes sense if this was a floating wall that ran perpendicular to another wall. Since it is an inside corner shouldn't I mark it in the following manner (please see attached image that illustrates my thinking).
First plate placed flush to corner (both 1 side flush to north wall and the end flush to west wall).
1. Place first stud flush with end (fparallel to west wall).
2. Add 2nd stud perpendicular to first (parallel to north wall) where it's side abuts the face of the first stud and the face is flush with the side of the plate that faces towards the inside of room) to create "california corner" (place to anchor drywall to).
3 Add line for 3rd stud 18 3/4" from end of plate and mark placement for stud on side of line away from corner.
4. Add next (and remaining lines) 16" from 3rd stud line.
Second plate abuts side of first plate and flush against west wall
1. Place first stud flush with end (parallel to north wall) abutting the side of the first plate.
2. Add 2nd stud perpendicular to first (parallel to west wall) where it's side abuts the face of the first stud and the face is flush with the side of the plate that faces towards the inside of room) to create "california corner" (place to anchor drywall to).
3 Add line for 3rd stud 15 3/4" from end of plate and mark placement for stud on side of line away from corner.
4. Add next (and remaining lines) 16" from 3rd stud line.
Put up drywall
North wall (wall #1)
1. Place first sheet on the north wall (wall #1) with side of drywall abutting the side of the west wall (wall #2)
2. Place 2nd and successive sheets on the north wall (#1) abutting them to the edge of the previous sheet and fastening them to center of the studs.
West Wall ( wall#2)
1. Place 1st sheet on the west wall (wall #2) with side of drywall sheet abutting the face of the 1st sheet of drywall that went up on the north wall (wall #1)
2. Place 2nd and successive sheets on the west wall (#2) abutting them to edge of the previous sheet and fastening them to the center of the studs.
Sorry this is so wordy, but hopefully my illustration will help clarify.
what is going on the exterior side of the studs?
2" EPS rigid insulation boards glued to foundation wall sealed with exanding foam and and tyrex tape. These will be the outer walls.
hi Greg, I'm sorry! but I got lost reading your post. with the north wall, west wall, perpendicular, and parallel mumbo-jumbo. maybe I've done it too long? to make it seem so complicated. whenever I start framing, I pick the longest wall first, getting all my wall lines chalked on a clean floor. holding lines back from block walls at least 4 inches to allow for plumbness, excess mortar joints etc. making sure chalk lines are very clear and clean, not a wide splatter of chalk! once longest wall line is established, I see where the corner wall will start by putting a mark at the inside point of wall, again at least 4 inches from block wall. from that mark, along the already called line, I'll pull a 3'-4'-5'= 3 feet along chalked line and put a mark 4 feet from chaulked line in an arc manner=( from the 3feet mark pull your tape and mark 5 feet again in an arc manner to come across the 4 feet mark where the arcs intersect will be 5 feet. making sure your corners are at 90 degrees. that being square, I use example 3-4-5. any multiple of those numbers will work the larger the better. example 3-4-5, 6-8-10, 9'-12'-15' and so on. once you have those two square lines called, you can use those lines to measure for all other walls.
I always started my laying out for studs with the longest wall, furthest from the left looking at wall. I guess cause I'm left handed? always started drywall from there also. once all your wall lines are chalked, transfer those lines using a plumb bob to your ceiling for top plates, install 2x4 blocking between floor joists if needed? for wall running same way as joists. when caulking lines for walls within the exterior walls, you're calling floating walls I think? I always chalk both sides of the wall, to make sure I see where nailer studs are needed for corners in the rooms. I wait till all top plates are fastened before laying out studs. from the far left side of long wall, I'll mark 15 1/4" with an X after it the x is where the stud sets I use O for jack studs. put a nail at the 15 1/4" mark to hook your tape measure on, then mark every 16" from there, that'll keep your studs on 16" centers the 16"'s will be marked in red on your tape measure or some other identifying mark? don't forget to mark for other inside wall corner nailers! I like to add 2x4 blocking between these nailer studs to fasten wall securely. when you get to the end of wall, need stud for inside corner nailer as with every wall. from that corner, I'll set my first stud at 15 3/4" from the plate then 16" from the wall way around the 15 1/4+ 1/2" drywall, makes it 16" centers all way around. once you get the hang of how it's done, you can cut your studs 1/4" short and nail together on the floor, through plates into studs no toe-nailing, then shim to joists and fasten securely with nails or screws. just make sure everything is laid out correctly! I usually staple 90 pound tar paper to three sides of bottom plate for moisture barrier. moisture will wick up into wood walls through concrete floor. fasten to floor with powder gun or expansion bolts.
hang drywall with all joints tight to each other and to ceiling, keep drywall at least 1/2" off concrete floor "wicking"
after a few basement renovations, you'll be knocking them out in 3-4 days
good luck and god bless
PS. I always transfer my squared chalk lines several inches inside the walls for future use as if flooring may have some design that needs to look square?
Thanks Larry. I figured my explanation was too detailed and that's why I added my diagram, which now that I look at it, is just as over-detailed.
If I am following you correctly, the below diagram is the way you layout studs on corners, correct? How about the drywall at the corner, do I have that overlapped correctly?
Thanks for your help. It is greatly appreciated!
I'm sorry Greg, the graph paper confuses me. basically, you just need one stud facing inside on each corner. plus a stud every 16" on center, so a stud at corner then at 16"-32"-48"-64"-96" and so on till the end of wall. where last stud is set to make the corner for that wall then on to next wall till you get all walls framed.
| | | | |
16" 32" 48" 64" 80
sorry messed up my math.
Larry's post has a lot of wisdom and experience to it :cool2:
From the above diagram that you post it seems to me that you could add/nail a 2x4 onto the stud where it reads " nailer stud " at the top.
And then minus/take away a stud down where it reads " nailer stud " on the diagram at the bottom. start your drywall on the side that you took the stud away from,giving it a solid 1 1/2" grab for the first piece.
edit... just read Larry's other post. Yes , indeed the simplest and easiest is to add a stud in each corner of the wall with the backside inside points of the stud touching. I like to add/nail blocking behind the back edge of the inside corner studs to make them lock together.
I think I have it now. thanks for all your help!
|All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:03 PM.|
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2015 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.